Cuba - Lonely Planet [193]
Barracuda Grill (Map; cnr Av 1 & Calle 58; complete meals CUC$7; 11am-7pm) Set in a thatched pavilion overlooking the beach on the grounds of the Barracuda Diving Center, this popular place has tasty fish and shellfish and it has satisfied many a post-dive appetite.
Albacora (Map; 61-36-50; cnr Av 1 & Calle 59; 10am-11pm) Fish, squid, shrimp and lobster are available at beachside Albacora. Check out the open bar offer (noon to 4pm).
A few more upscale restaurants are opposite the Hotel Cuatro Palmas, Av 1 and Calle 62, including small and intimate Restaurante La Fondue (Map; 66-77-47; noon-11pm) with beef fillet fondue for CUC$10.
There are several upscale restaurants in Parque Josone (Map; Av 1 btwn Calles 56 & 59). These include El Retiro ( 66-73-16; noon-10pm), with international cuisine and good lobster; Dante ( 66-77-38), with Italian food; and Restaurante La Campana ( 66-72-24) with Cuban dishes. On the edge of the park is La Casa de Antigüedades ( 66-73-29; cnr Av 1 & Calle 59), an old mansion crammed with antiques where beef, fish and shellfish dishes are served beneath chandeliers.
ICE-CREAM PARLORS
Heladería Coppelia (Map; Av 1 btwn Calles 44 & 46; 3-11pm) What, a Coppelia with no queues? Set above the new shopping complex in Parque de las 8000 Taquillas, Varadero’s ice-cream cathedral is bright, airy and surprisingly uncrowded.
GROCERIES
There’s a handy grocery store beside Aparthotel Varazul (Map; Calle 15; 9am-7pm), and also at Caracol Pelicano (Map; cnr Calle 27 & Av 3; 9am-7:45pm), Club Herradura (Map; cnr Av de la Playa & Calle 36; 9am-7pm) and Cabañas del Sol (Map; Av Las Américas; 9am-7:45pm).
The only place where you can always find bread and pastries is Panadería Doña Neli (Map; cnr Av 1 & Calle 43; 24hr).
Drinking
Bar Benny (Map; Camino del Mar btwn Calles 12 & 13; noon-midnight) A tribute to Benny Moré, this place has a jazz-den energy, with black-and-white photos of the legendary musician lining the walls and his velvety voice oozing from the sound system. Post-beach cocktails and olives are recommended.
Bar Mirador (Map; Av Las Américas; admission CUC$2) On the top floor of the Dupont Mansion, Bar Mirador is Varadero’s ultimate romantic hangout where ‘happy hour’ conveniently coincides with sunset cocktails.
Calle 62 (Map; cnr Av 1 & Calle 62) Set in the transition zone between old and new Varadero, this simple snack bar attracts clientele from both ends. It’s good for a cheese sandwich during the day, and the ambience becomes feistier after dark with live music going on until midnight.
Entertainment
While Varadero’s nightlife might look enticing on paper, there’s no real entertainment ‘scene’ as such, and the concept of bar-hopping à la Cancún or Miami Beach is almost nonexistent, unless you’re prepared to incorporate some long-distance hiking into your drinking schedule. Here’s a rough rundown of what’s on offer.
TROVA & TRADITIONAL MUSIC
Casa de la Cultura Los Corales (Map; 61-25-62; cnr Av 1 & Calle 34) A place where the locals still hold sway. You can catch ‘filin’ (feeling) matinees here, where singers pour their heart into Neil Sedaka–style crooning. There are also instructors available for Cuban music; or take dance lessons for around CUC$2 an hour.
DANCE CLUBS
Casa de la Música (Map; 61-38-88; cnr Av de la Playa & Calle 42; admission CUC$10; 10:30pm-3am Wed-Sun) Aping its two popular Havana namesakes, this place has quality live acts and a definitive Cuban feel. It’s in town and attracts a local crowd who pay in pesos.
Discoteca Havana Club (Map; 61-18-07; cnr Av 3 & Calle 62; admission CUC$5) Near the Centro Comercial Copey, this is another tourist disco that welcomes Cubans. Expect big, boisterous crowds and plenty of male posturing.
Discoteca La Bamba (Map; guests/nonguests free/CUC$10; 10pm-4am) Varadero’s most modern video disco is