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á (Cubanacán; 91-55-15; s/d CUC$22/44) This place was built in 1963 on the east side of the Laguna del Tesoro, about 5km from Boca de Guamá by boat (cars can be left at the crocodile farm; CUC$1). The 50 thatched cabañas (cabins) with bath and TV are on piles over the shallow waters. The six small islands bearing the units are connected by wooden footbridges to other islands with a bar, cafetería, overpriced restaurant and a swimming pool containing chlorinated lake water. Rowboats are for rent. Noise from the on-site disco will leave you questioning this place’s authenticity (there are no known records of discos in Taíno Indian villages), and the tranquility is further broken by the ubiquitous day-trippers who come and go by speedboat from dawn till dusk. Bird-watching at sunrise, however, is reputedly fantastic. You’ll need insect repellent if you decide to stay. The ferry transfer is not included in the room price (see below).

At the boat dock you’ll find Bar La Rionda ( 9:30am-5pm), Restaurante Colibrí and Restaurante La Boca (set meals CUC$12).

Getting There & Away

The Havana–Trinidad Víazul bus passes daily in either direction. Guamá isn’t an official stop but a word with the driver and you may be able to negotiate a drop-off at Boca de Guamá. There are regular tours from Varadero to Boca de Guamá.

Getting Around

A passenger ferry (adult/child CUC$10/5, 20 minutes) departs Boca de Guamá for Villa Guamá across Laguna del Tesoro four times a day. Speedboats depart more frequently and whisk you across to the pseudo-Indian village in just 10 minutes any time during the day for CUC$10 per person round-trip (with 40 minutes waiting time at Villa Guamá; two persons minimum). In the morning you can allow yourself more time on the island by going one way by launch and returning by ferry.

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GRAN PARQUE NATURAL MONTEMAR

The largest ciénaga (swamp) in Cuba, Ciénaga de Zapata is also one of the country’s most diverse ecosystems. Crowded into this vast wetland (which is essentially two swamps divided by a rocky central tract) are 14 different vegetation formations including mangroves, wood, dry wood, cactus, savannah, selva and semideciduous. There are also extensive salt pans. The marshes support more than 190 bird species, 31 types of reptiles, 12 species of mammals, plus countless amphibians, fish and insects (including the insatiable mosquito). There are more than 900 plant species here, some 115 of them endemic. It is also an important habitat for the endangered manatí (manatee), the Cuban cocodrilo (crocodile; Crocodylus rhombifer), and the manjuarí (alligator gar; Atractosteus tristoechus), Cuba’s most primitive fish.

The Zapata is the place to come to see zunzuncitos (bee hummingbirds; the world’s smallest bird), cormorants, cranes, ducks, flamingos, hawks, herons, ibis, owls, parrots, partridges, sparrows, tocororos (Cuba’s national bird) and wrens. Numerous migratory birds from North America winter here, making November to April the best birding season. It’s also the number-one spot in Cuba for catch-and-release sport fishing and fly-fishing, where the palometa, sábalo and robalo are jumping (bonefish too!).

Communications in Zapata, unsuitable for agriculture, were almost nonexistent before the Revolution when poverty was the rule. Charcoal makers burn wood from the region’s semideciduous forests, and turba (peat) dug from the swamps is an important source of fuel. The main industry today is tourism and eco-tourists are arriving in increasing numbers.

Information

The National Park Office ( 98-72-49; 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) is at the north entrance to Playa Larga on the road from Boca de Guamá. The staff here is knowledgeable and helpful. Alternatively you can try the Cubanacán office Click here on the Autopista near Central Australia or the Playa Larga or Girón hotels.

Sights & Activities

There are four main excursions into the park, although the itineraries (particularly for bird-watching) are flexible. Transport is not usually laid on, so it is best to arrange beforehand.