Cuba - Lonely Planet [203]
For avid bird-watchers Observación de Aves (per person CUC$19) offers an extremely flexible itinerary and the right to roam (with a qualified park ornithologist) around a number of different sites, including the Reserva de Bermejas. Among 18 species of endemic bird found here you can see prized ferminins, cabreritos and gallinuelas de Santo Tomás – found only on the Zapata Peninsula.
Switching from land to boat, the Río Hatiguanico (per person CUC$19) takes you on a three-hour 12km river trip through the densely forested northwestern part of the peninsula. You’ll have to duck to avoid the branches at some points while at others the river opens out into a wide delta-like estuary. Birdlife is abundant in this part of the peninsula and if you’re lucky you may also see turtles and crocodiles.
It’s also worth asking about the Santo Tomás trip, an excursion (CUC$10) that begins 30km west of Playa Larga in the park’s only real settlement (Santo Tomás) and proceeds along a tributary of the Hatiguanico – walking or boating, depending on the season. It’s another good option for birders.
Aspiring fishermen can arrange excellent fly-fishing at either Las Salinas or Hatiguanico. Ask at the National Park Office.
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PLAYA LARGA
Continuing south from Boca de Guamá you reach Playa Larga, on the Bahía de Cochinos (Bay of Pigs), after 13km (or 32km from where you left the Autopista Nacional). Larga was one of two beaches invaded by US-backed exiles on April 17, 1961 (although Playa Girón 35km further south saw far bigger landings). There’s a cheapish resort here, a scuba diving center, and a smattering of casas particulares. It is also the headquarters of the Ciénaga de Zapata National Park and a good base for environmental excursions around the peninsula.
Activities
Playa Larga is a diver’s paradise. Check out the boxed text,, for more details.
Sleeping & Eating
Villa Playa Larga (Cubanacán; 98-72-94; s/d low season incl breakfast CUC$27/54; ) On a small scimitar of white-sand beach by the road, just east of the village, this hotel has huge rooms with bath, sitting room, fridge and TV. There are also eight two-bedroom family bungalows, though the restaurant is legendary in its bleakness (and in total contrast to the setting). The villa was closed for some long-overdue renovations at the time of writing.
Casa Fefa ( 98-71-33; r CUC$20-25; ) There are some affable casas particulares in Playa Larga. Start your search at Casa Fefa, run by Josefa Pita Cobas and Osnedy González Pita, near Caleton beach. Osnedy can put you in touch with hiking and bird-watching guides.
Palmares restaurant (meals CUC$2-7) Across the road from Villa Playa Larga, Palmares has hearty ham-and-cheese sandwiches, fish meals and can cook up a respectable vegetarian plate.
Getting There & Away
The reliable Havana–Trinidad Víazul bus passes through daily in either direction and will pick up/drop off on request outside Villa Playa Larga. Approximate arrival times are 11am for the Playa Girón, Cienfuegos and Trinidad service; and 6:45pm for Jagüey Grande and Havana service.
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PLAYA GIRÓN
The sandy arc of Playa Girón nestles peacefully on the eastern side of the infamous Bahía de Cochinos (Bay of Pigs), 48km south of Boca de Guamá. Notorious as the place where the Cold War almost got hot, the beach is actually named for a French pirate, Gilbert Girón, who met his nemesis here by