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These days, guayaberas are ubiquitous all over Latin America from backstreet bars in Mexico to smart Miami business meetings. Usually worn casually untucked at the waist, the shirt comes in a variety of pastel colors (though white is the standard) and is noted for its four large pockets and numerous decorative buttons.

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A few blocks north of the park is the Museo Casa Natal de Serafín Sánchez (Céspedes Norte No 112; admission CUC$0.50; 8am-5pm). Serafín Sánchez was a local patriot who took part in both Wars of Independence and went down fighting in November 1896.

Replicating its equally diminutive namesake in Miramar, Havana, the Fundación de la Naturaleza y El Hombre ( 2-8342; Cruz Pérez No 1; admission CUC$1; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noon Sat) on Parque Maceo chronicles the 17,422km canoe odyssey ‘from the Amazon to the Caribbean’ in 1987 led by Cuban writer and Renaissance man Antonio Nuñez Jiménez (1923–98). Some 432 explorers made the journey through 10 countries, from Ecuador to the Bahamas, in the twin dugout canoes Simón Bolívar and Hatuey. The latter measures over 13m and is the collection’s central, prized piece. Across from the Fundación is the handsome old Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Caridad (Céspedes Norte No 207), the city’s second church whose internal arches are a favored nesting spot for Cuban sparrows.

Sleeping

IN TOWN

Casas Particulares

Hostal Los Pinos ( 32-93-14; Carretera Central Norte No 157 btwn Mirto Milián & Coronel Lagón; r CUC$20-25; ) Good for travelers in transit, this museum to art deco is on Carretera Central and has a garage, delicious dinners and two comfy rooms.

‘Los Richards’ – Ricardo Rodríguez ( 32-30-29; Independencia Norte No 28 Altos; r CUC$25; ) The small stairway off the main square belies the size of this place. The front room is enormous, dwarfing the two beds, rocking chairs, full bar area and fridge. There’s a smaller room out back.

Hostal Paraíso ( 5271-1257; Máximo Gómez Sur No 11 btwn Honorato & Cervantes; r CUC$25; ) Hang out amid the hanging plants with this new kid on the block. The house itself dates from 1838 and, although the rooms are a little dark, bathrooms are huge and the surrounding greenery spirit-lifting.

Hotels

Sancti Spíritus’ two city-center hotels are set in attractive restored colonial buildings. They form part of a complejo that charges the same prices, though the Rijo is recommended as the best nook.

Hostal del Rijo (Cubanacán; 32-85-88; Honorato No 12; r CUC$49; ) Even committed casa particular fans will have trouble resisting this meticulously restored 1818 mansion situated on quiet (until the Casa de la Trova opens) Plaza Honorato. Sixteen huge, plush rooms – many with plaza-facing balconies – are equipped with everything a romance-seeking Cuba-phile could wish for, including satellite TV, complementary shampoos, and chunky colonial furnishings. Downstairs in the elegant courtyard restaurant you’ll get served the kind of sumptuous, unhurried breakfast that’ll have you lingering until eleven. Oh, what the hell, might as well stay another night.

Hotel Plaza ( 32-71-02; Independencia Norte No 1; r CUC$49; ) The Rijo’s smaller and slightly less attractive younger sister, the Plaza is a block north on Parque Serafín Sánchez. Spreading 28 rooms over two stories, the hotel is embellished by hanging wicker chairs suspended from the rafters and European-style statues and tiles surrounding a cozy downstairs bar. There’s a mirador (lookout) on the roof and great service throughout. If the Rijo’s full, look no further.

NORTH OF TOWN

There are two very agreeable hotels along Carretera Central as you head north; either one makes a good choice if you don’t want to bother with the city center.

Villa Los Laureles (Islazul; 32-73-45; Carretera Central Km 383; s/d CUC$30/38; ) Not content to rest on them, Los Laureles lines its laurel trees up along a shady entrance drive that beckons visitors into a surprisingly classy Islazul out-of-towner. There’s