Cuba - Lonely Planet [235]
Villa Rancho Hatuey (Islazul; 32-83-15; Carretera Central Km 384; s/d CUC$36/53; ) Here’s the dilemma. Not 1km from Los Laureles’ row of gnarly laurel trees lies another veritable Islazul gem accessible from the southbound lane of Carretera Central. Probably the more peaceful of the two options, Rancho Hatuey spreads 76 rooms in two-story cabins across expansive landscaped grounds set back a good 500m from the road. Catching some rays around the swimming pool or grabbing a bite in the serviceable on-site restaurant you’ll see bus groups from Canada and Communist Party officials from Havana mingling in awkward juxtaposition.
EAST OF TOWN
Hotel Zaza (Islazul; 32-85-12; s/d incl breakfast CUC$30/40; ) It’s the fish – in the nearby lake, not in the restaurant – that dominate the menu here. Perched above expansive Embalse Zaza, this scruffy rural retreat looks more like a utilitarian apartment block transplanted from Moscow than a hotel – not that this discourages the armies of bass fishermen who descend on here in their droves (four-hour fishing trips on the lake go for CUC$30). For nonfishermen there’s a swimming pool, and friendly staff who can organize boat trips on the lake without the fishing rod (one-hour cruise CUC$20 for two people). To get here, go east 5km on Carretera Central toward Ciego de Ávila, then south 5km to the lake.
Eating
You’ll burn vital calories searching for a square meal in Sancti Spíritus. Outside of the casas particulares and duo of Cubanacán hotels, there are just two places to seriously test your taste buds, both of which are run by state-run restaurant group Palmares.
RESTAURANTS
Cremería El Kikiri (Independencia Norte & Laborni) What, no Coppelia? Kikiri is Sancti Spíritus’ longstanding provincial stand-in. Alternatively, hang around long enough in Parque Serafín Sánchez and a DIY ice-cream man will turn up with his ice-cream maker powered by a washing-machine motor.
Quinta Santa Elena ( 32-81-67; Padre Quintero No 60; dishes CUC$4-8; 10am-midnight) ‘Old clothes’ is a name that has never really done justice to Cuba’s famous shredded-beef dinner (ropa vieja). There’s certainly nothing ‘old’ or ‘clothes-like’ about the dish here, or the equally tasty shrimps in red sauce for that matter. While the Mesón (below) has the edge on food, the Santa Elena wins the Oscar for location, set on a charming riverside patio in front of the city’s famous packhorse bridge.
Mesón de la Plaza ( 32-85-46; Máximo Gómez Sur No 34; noon-2:30pm & 6-10pm) The best food in town and the best location after the Santa Elena. Encased in a 19th-century mansion that once belonged to a rich Spanish tycoon you can tuck in to classic Spanish staples such as potaje de garbanzos (chickpeas with pork) and paella here while appetizing music drifts in from the Casa de la Trova next door.
Restaurante Hostal del Rijo (Cubanacán; 32-85-88; Honorato No 12) You could come here on a first date, so alluring is the quiet colonial ambience in the hotel’s impressive central courtyard. Service is equally good and the food does its best in a city not renowned for its cuisine.
Las Arcadas ( 32-71-02; Independencia Norte No 1) Based at Hotel Plaza, Las Arcadas restaurant is another place where the refined colonial surroundings seem to add taste layers to the all-too-familiar comida criolla (Creole food) dishes. There’s good coffee, too.
GROCERIES
Mercado agropecuario (cnr Independencia Sur & Honorato) Cuba’s most centrally located agropecuario is situated just off the main shopping boulevard. Stick you head in and see how the Cubans shop.
Panadería El Fenix (cnr Máximo Gomez Norte & Frank País; 6am-6pm) Follow the aroma. Cuban bread might taste like the host at Sunday Mass, but it sure smells good.