Cuba - Lonely Planet [282]
En Familla ( 37-15-23; Vicente García btwn Ramon Ortuño & Julián Santana; 11am-11pm) Promising sign, morbid surroundings, scant menu; but if you can rouse the pizza man from his catatonic slumber you might just get lucky.
Restaurante 2007 (Vicente García btwn Julián Santana & Ramón Ortuño; noon-2:45pm & 6-10:45pm) A new attempt at fine dining in Las Tunas (albeit in pesos), this place claims to be ‘reservations only’ and doesn’t exactly encourage non-Cubans. The plush interior and besuited waiters look promising, but you’ll get a friendlier welcome at El Baturro across the road.
El Baturro ( 34-90-11; Av Francisco Varona btwn Julián Santana & Ramón Ortuño; 11am-11pm) The walls are covered in scribbled prose – love notes and eulogies to murdered Chilean troubadour Victor Jara – and the plates are stuffed with better-than-average Cuban cooking, including a surprise rabbit dish, making this the best restaurant in Las Tunas – hands down!
Restaurante La Bodeguita ( 34-90-11; Francisco Varona No 293; 11am-11pm) A Palmares joint, meaning that it’s a better bet than the usual peso parlors. You’ll get checkered tablecloths here, a limited wine list and what the Cuban government calls ‘international cuisine’ – read spaghetti and pizza. Try the chicken breast with mushroom sauce for around CUC$5.
GROCERIES
To stock up on groceries (or to break bigger bills), try Supermercado Casa Azul (cnr Vicente García & Francisco Vega; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun). Mercado agropecuario (Av Camilo Cienfuegos) is a small market not far from the train station.
Drinking
Casa del Vino Don Juan (cnr Francisco Varona & Joaquín Agüero; 9am-midnight) Wine-tasting in Las Tunas probably sounds about as credible as food rationing in Beverley Hills, yet here it is; and only seven pesos for a shot of Cuba’s – er – finest wine, the slightly vinegary Soroa (red or white). The Don Juan is a down-to-earth corner bar with large open doors, a handful of tables and only one product on sale. Go just to say you’ve been there.
Entertainment
Las Tunas comes alive on Saturday nights when packed streets and fun-seeking locals defy the city’s ‘boring’ image. The main hubs are: Parque Vicente García, where alfresco son music competes with more modern reggaetón (Cuban hip-hop); and the Feria Ganado.
Feria Ganado (Farm Fair; admission free; 9am-6pm Sat & Sun) Located in Parque Julio 26 where Vicente García bends into Av 1 de Mayo, it kicks off every weekend with a market, music, food stalls, kids’ activities and, if you’re lucky, a full-scale rodeo (you’ll see the large permanent arena as you walk in).
Cabildo San Pedro Lucumí ( 34-64-61; Francisco Varona btwn Vicente García & Lucas Ortíz; admission free; from 9pm Sun) Cultural activities happen at this friendly Afro-Caribbean association, HQ of the Compañía Folklórica Onilé. Drop in on Sunday for some dancing and drumming.
Teatro Tunas (Francisco Varona btwn Joaquín Agüero & Nicolas Heredia) A recently revitalized theater that shows quality movies and some of Cuba’s best touring entertainment including flamenco, ballet and plays.
Cine Disco Luanda (Francisco Varona No 256; 10pm-2am Sun-Fri, 10pm-3am Sat) The most popular disco in Las Tunas. There’s also a cinema here.
Cabaret Taino ( 34-38-23; cnr Vicente García & A Cabrera; admission per couple CUC$10; 9pm-2am Tue-Sun) This large thatched venue at the west entrance to town has the standard feathers, salsa and pasties show. Cover charge includes a bottle of rum and cola.
Casa de la Cultura ( 34-35-00; Vicente García No 8) The best place for the traditional stuff with concerts, poetry, dance etc. The action spills out into the street on weekend nights.
From October to April is baseball season. Las Tunas plays at the Estadio Julio Antonio Mella near the train station. Los Magos (the Wizards) haven’t produced much magic of late and usually compete with Ciego de Ávila for bottom place in Group C. Other sports happen at the