Cuba - Lonely Planet [283]
Shopping
Fondo Cubano de Bienes Culturales (cnr Angel Guardia & Francisco Varona; 9am-noon & 1:30-5pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-noon Sat) This store sells fine artwork, ceramics and embroidered items.
Vide Cuba (cnr Lucas Ortiz & Francisco Vega; 8:30am-9pm Mon-Sat) For your photographic needs, try this place.
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RODEOS
Despite spawning John Wayne, Lee Marvin and a whole generation of square-jawed Hollywood gunslingers, the US doesn’t have a monopoly on cowboys – or those most boisterous of cowboy shindigs: rodeos. In fact, rather like with baseball, the Cubans have taken a peculiarly American obsession and given it their own Caribbean twist.
Cattle-herding has a long history in Cuba. Before the Revolution, Cuban cows produced some of the best beef in the Western hemisphere and, although the succulence of the streaks might have suffered since Castro nationalized the ranches, the skill and dexterity of the vaqueros (cowboys) has gone from strength to strength.
The cathedral of Cuban rodeo is the National Rodeo Arena in Parque Lenin in Havana – the host, since 1996, of the annual Boyeros Cattleman’s Fair. But for a more authentic look at cowboy culture in the island’s untrammeled hinterland, head first to the prime cattle-rearing provinces of Camagüey and Las Tunas where wildly contested rodeos take place every weekend in season.
Cuban rodeos exhibit all of the standard equestrian attractions with a few quirky Caribbean extras thrown in. Expect myriad horseback-riding events, obnoxious clowns, dexterous vaqueros lassoing steers, and rugged Benicio del Toro look-a-likes bolting out of rusty paddocks atop ill-tempered 680kg bulls to rapturous cheers from a noisy audience.
Held in tandem with its alfresco Saturday-night street parties, the Las Tunas rodeo is reason alone to visit this small, underestimated city. Entrance to the arena in Parque Julio 26 is normally free and the atmosphere inside refreshingly congenial.
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Getting There & Away
BUS & TRUCK
The main bus station ( 34-30-60; Francisco Varona) is 1km southeast of the main square. Víazul (www.viazul.com) buses have daily departures; tickets are sold by the jefe de turno (shift manager).
Havana buses also stop at Camagüey (CUC$7, two hours 30 minutes), Ciego de Ávila (CUC$13, four hours 15 minutes), Sancti Spíritus (CUC$17, six hours 40 minutes), Santa Clara (CUC$22, seven hours 15 minutes) and Entronque de Jagüey (CUC$26, nine hours 20 minutes). Santiago buses stop at Bayamo (CUC$6, one hour 15 minutes). To get to Guantánamo or Baracoa, you have to connect through Santiago de Cuba.
Passenger trucks to other parts of the province, including Puerto Padre, pick up passengers on the main street near the train station, with the last departure before 2pm. Buy your tickets at the window. It’s easier to reach Playa La Herradura from Holguín, but you can take a truck to Puerto Padre and connect with ongoing trucks there.
TRAIN
The train station ( 34-81-40) is near Estadio Julio Antonio Mella on the northeast side of town. See the jefe de turno for tickets. The fast Havana–Santiago Tren Francés doesn’t stop in Las Tunas so you’re left with slower, less reliable services. Trains to Havana (via Camagüey and Santa Clara) leave on odd-numbered days; the service to Santiago leaves on even-numbered days. There are daily services to Camagüey and Holguín. As ever, double-check these times and prices before you depart.
Getting Around
A taxi from the bus station to Hotel Las Tunas should cost approximately CUC$2, or you can walk. You can hail a cab here or anywhere around the main square. Horse carts run along Frank País near the baseball stadium to the town center; it costs 10 pesos.
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VíAZUL DEPARTURES
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Cubacar ( 37-15-06; Av 2 de Diciembre) is at Hotel Las Tunas. An Oro Negro gas station (cnr Francisco Varona & Lora) is a block west of the bus station. The Servi-Cupet gas station (Carretera Central; 24hr) is at the exit from Las Tunas toward Camagüey.
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