Cuba - Lonely Planet [90]
Hotel Florida (Habaguanex; 862-4127; Obispo No 252; s/d incl breakfast CUC$95/160; ) They don’t make them like this anymore. The Florida is an architectural extravaganza built in the purest colonial style, with arches and pillars clustered around an atmospheric central courtyard. Habaguanex has restored the building (constructed in 1836) with loving attention to detail, with the amply furnished rooms retaining their original high ceilings and wonderfully luxurious finishes. Anyone with even a passing interest in Cuba’s architectural heritage will want to check out this colonial jewel, complemented with an elegant cafe and an amiable bar-nightspot (from 8pm).
Hotel Marqués de Prado Ameno (Habaguanex; 862-4127; cnr O’Reilly & Cuba; s/d incl breakfast CUC$95/160; ) Connected to the Florida by a tunnel, Havana’s newest hotel offers similar facilities – thoughtful restoration, eager-to-please staff and plenty of colonial grandiosity.
Hotel Ambos Mundos (Habaguanex; 860-9529; Obispo No 153; s/d CUC$95/160; ) Hemingway’s Havana hideout and the place where he is said to have penned his seminal guerrilla classic For Whom the Bell Tolls (Castro’s bedtime reading during the war in the mountains), the pastel-pink Ambos Mundos is a Havana institution and an obligatory pit stop for anyone on a world tour of ‘Hemingway-once-fell-over-here’ bars. Small, sometimes windowless rooms suggest overpricing, but the lobby bar is classic enough (follow the romantic piano melody) and drinks on the rooftop restaurant one of the city’s finest treats.
Hotel Raquel (Habaguanex; 860-8280; cnr Amargura & San Ignacio; s/d CUC$115/200; ) Encased in a dazzling 1908 palace (that was once a bank), the Hotel Raquel takes your breath away with its grandiose columns, sleek marble statues and intricate stained-glass ceiling. Painstakingly restored in 2003, the reception area in this marvelous eclectic building is a tourist sight in its own right; replete with priceless antiques and intricate art-nouveau flourishes. Behind its impressive architecture, the Raquel offers well-presented if noisy rooms, a small gym/sauna, friendly staff and a great central location.
Hotel Santa Isabel (Habaguanex; 860-8201; Baratillo No 9; s/d incl breakfast CUC$190/240; ) Considered one of Havana’s finest hotels, as well as one of its oldest (it first began operations in 1867), the Hotel Santa Isabel is housed in the Palacio de los Condes de Santovenia, the former city crash pad of a decadent Spanish count. In 1998 this three-story baroque beauty was upgraded to five-star status but, unlike other posh Cuban hotels, the Santa Isabel actually comes close to justifying the billing. The 17 regular rooms have bundles of historic charm and are all kitted out with attractive Spanish colonial furniture as well as paintings by contemporary Cuban artists. No small wonder ex-US president, Jimmy Carter, stayed here during his visit in 2002.
Centro Habana
BUDGET
Casas Particulares
Dulce Hostal – Dulce María González ( 863-2506; Amistad No 220 btwn Neptuno & San Miguel; r CUC$20) The Dulce (sweet) Hostal on Amistad (friendship) Street sounds like a good combination, and sweet and friendly is what you get in this beautiful colonial house with tile floors, soaring ceilings and a quiet, helpful hostess.
Martha Obregón ( 870-2095; marthaobregon@yahoo.com; Gervasio No 308 Altos btwn Neptuno & San Miguel; r CUC$20-25) A pleasant family home with little balconies and small street views. You’ll get a good sense of life in the crowded central quarter here with its whistling tradesmen, snippets of music and stickball-playing kids.
Niurka O Rey ( 863-0278; Águila No 206 btwn Ánimas & Virtudes; r CUC$20-25) A sparkling blue house with slightly less sparkling but adequate interior. One of the two rooms here comes with a private bath and there’s parking close by.
Juan Carlos ( 863-6301, 861-8003; Crespo No 107 btwn Colón & Trocadero; r CUC$20-25) Big, spotless house in the middle of the hood that is Centro Habana, this house has