Cuba - Lonely Planet [91]
Julio & Elsa Roque ( 861-8027; julioroq@yahoo.com; Consulado No 162 apt 2 btwn Colón & Trocadero; r CUC$25) Julio’s a pediatrician and rents out two rooms in his friendly family house just a block from Prado. Ring the door bell and a key will be lowered down from a 1st-floor balcony to let you in. The house is cozy and nicely furnished and both Julio and his wife Elsa are superhelpful and a mine of information. English spoken.
Esther Cardoso ( 862-0401; esthercv2551@cubarte.cult.cu; Águila No 367 btwn Neptuno & San Miguel; r CUC$25) Esther is an artist, meaning that this little palace shines like an oasis in Centro Habana’s dilapidated desert with tasteful decor, funky posters, spick-and-span baths and a spectacular roof terrace. Book early as there are plenty in-the-know.
Elicio Fernández ( 861-7447; Águila No 314 apt 405 btwn Neptuno & Concordia; r CUC$25) These two rooms are in a block, meaning you’ll have to find the doorman and negotiate the elevator to get in. It’s probably worth it: breezy rooms have natural light and there are great rooftop views. The bath is shared.
La Casona Colonial – Jorge Díaz ( 870-0489; cubarooms2000@yahoo.com; Gervasio No 209 btwn Concordia & Virtudes; r CUC$25) A colonial house with a pleasant courtyard, this place has a shared bathroom but plenty of bed space and configurations. It’s located in the thick of the Centro Habana action with friendly owners and good access.
Hotels
Casa del Científico ( 862-1607/8, Paseo de Martí No 212; s/d with bath CUC$45/55, without bath CUC$25/31; ) Eclectic meets eccentric in this eye-catching Prado palace that was once the residence of Cuba’s second president, José Miguel Gómez. These days the Casa del Científico’s grand stairways, marble columns, hidden courtyards and withered terraces maintain a slightly more abandoned air (expect the odd cobweb and a good coating of dust) but, with its central location and time-warped prerevolutionary atmosphere, it makes an evocative introduction to Havana. The rooms are ordinary but adequate and there’s a rather evocative restaurant on the 1st floor.
Hotel Lido (Islazul; 867-1102; Consulado No 210 btwn Ánimas & Trocadero; s/d CUC$28/38; ) A travelers’ institution, the lackluster Lido is Havana’s unofficial backpacker’s hostel that has been popular for years for its central location, no-frills rooms (with intermittent hot water) and gritty neighborhood feel. It certainly ain’t fancy, but there’s a handy internet terminal downstairs, breakfast on the roof and a helpful Cubanacán info desk. Then there’s the price – cheaper than most of Havana’s casas.
Hotel Caribbean (Islazul; 860-8233; Paseo de Martí No 164 btwn Colón & Refugio; s/d CUC$36/54; ) Cheap but not always so cheerful, the Caribbean – which was the recipient of a long-awaited 2006 makeover – offers aspiring Cuban renovators a lesson in how not to decorate. Dark poky rooms contain basic facilities such as shower, TV and air-con, but it’s all a bit rough around the edges and the price – while competitive – certainly doesn’t justify the facilities. There’s a bar in the lobby and the Café del Prado next door is OK for a snack. Budget travelers should try the Lido around the corner first.
Hotel Lincoln (Islazul; 33-82-09; Av de Italia btwn Virtudes & Ánimas; s/d CUC$39/46; ) A peeling nine-story giant on busy Galiano (Av de Italia), the Hotel Lincoln was the second-tallest building in Havana when it was built in 1926. Overshadowed by taller opposition these days, the hotel still offers 135 air-con rooms with bath and TV in an atmosphere that is more 1950s than 2000s. Notoriety hit this hotel in 1958 when Castro’s 26th of July Movement kidnapped five-time motor racing world champion Carlos Fangio from the downstairs lobby on the eve of the Cuban Grand Prix. A small ‘museum’ on the 8th floor records the event for posterity. Otherwise the facilities are friendly but timeworn.
MIDRANGE
Hotel Park View (Habaguanex; Colón No 101; s/d CUC$52/86; ) Built