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and ducks this means making a channel between the fat and the meat to give the fat an escape route as it melts. In Chinese cooking air is blown under the skin (usually with a bicycle or ball pump) to make such a channel. But you can also pierce the skin or make slits through the skin near the largest fat deposits at the sides of each breast and the undersides of the thighs. Then pour boiling water over the skin to soften the fat. When you start grilling, the fat will be ready to flow. Always grill these birds over a drip pan to keep the fat from dripping into the flames, where it can catch fire. Duck fat melts at a higher temperature than goose fat, and therefore is a little harder to get rid of during cooking.

Farm-raised game birds may be milder and more plump than their wild-living counterpart, but compared to the chicken and turkey that most people are used to, game birds are leaner, tougher, and more assertively flavored. There are several steps we take to overcome these limitations and turn them into assets. The low fat content of most game birds causes them to dry out during grilling. They cook faster and suffer from overcooking more readily. For that reason, most game birds are not cooked beyond medium-rare. Domestic commercially raised poultry needs to be thoroughly cooked, but because farm-raised game birds live in open space and are not confined to cages, they do not develop the bacterial infections common to mass produced poultry. Cooking them to an internal temperature of 150°F is sufficient to kill any bacteria on the surface and keep the breast meat moist.

Whole roasted game birds are either barded with a layer of fat or fatty bacon draped over the top, or are larded with plugs of fat inserted into their breast meat. Both of these practices add needed fat to the lean meat, but they also provide a vehicle for adding flavor. Frequently the fat is chopped finely and mixed with spices and herbs. The aromatic oils in the seasoning blend with the fat and flow into the meat as the bird cooks. Although barding and larding are traditionally used on game birds, you can take advantage of the same techniques when grilling poultry. Turkey breast is also lean and prone to dryness. Inserting lardoons of garlic and bacon, or chopped pistachio nuts and herbs can be a delicious addition to any grilled bird.

WHOLE DUCK

Duck Barbecued with Coffee-Cherry Sauce

MAKES 3 TO 4 SERVINGS

Here’s an easy technique for roasting a crisp, fat-purged Pekin duck. Instead of blowing air under the duck skin as you do in a traditional Peking duck preparation you make slits through the skin on either side of the backbone. Because the back is not usually served, no one will see the escape route for the fat, and you can make the slits large enough to slip a finger up under the skin and dig out most of the fat before the duck starts cooking. Boiling water is poured over the skin to soften any remaining fat that can’t be removed easily. The duck is seasoned with dark coffee and chiles, which intensify the rich flavors of Pekin duck meat, and it’s served with a sweet and tangy barbecue sauce.

INGREDIENTS:

1 Pekin Duck (about 5 pounds), washed and patted dry

¼ cup Espresso Rub

1 cup brewed espresso or dark-roast coffee

½ cup jarred cherry preserves

DIRECTIONS:

Make slits through the skin of the duck on either side of the backbone from the wing to the leg. Work the knife into the slits as far as you can reach, separating the skin from the meat and removing as much visible fat from the sides of the breast and undersides of the thighs as possible. Place the duck in a sink. Bring at least 2 quarts of water to a boil and pour over the skin of the duck. Tie one end of a 1-foot string to the end of each drumstick and hang the duck over a sink or drip pan. Place an electric fan in front of the duck and turn to medium-high. Allow the duck skin to dry in front of the fan for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Heat a grill for direct medium heat, about 375°F. Place a large drip pan over the fire under the grill grate.

Rub 3 tablespoons of the espresso