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Brush and oil the grill grate and place the duck directly over the drip pan, breast-side up. Cover the grill and cook until the skin is browned and crisp and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the inside of a thigh registers 165°F, about 1¼ hours. If using charcoal or wood, you might have to replenish the coals about three-quarters of the way through roasting.

While the duck is grilling, combine the espresso and remaining 1 tablespoon of rub in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Stir in the cherry preserves and simmer until slightly thickened, about 3 minutes.

Remove the duck to a carving board and let rest for 10 minutes. Remove the drip pan from the grill. Heat the cherry sauce in a small saucepan and stir in 1 to 2 tablespoons of the drippings from the duck.

Carve the duck and serve with cherry sauce.

WHOLE DUCK

Quick-Grilled Duckling with Balsamic Syrup

MAKES 3 TO 4 SERVINGS

Moulard ducks are typically fattened for making foie gras, so they develop a very thick, uniform layer of fat all over their bodies. It makes their meat exquisitely rich, but requires some inventive cooking techniques to keep them from being greasy. One of the simplest ways to render duck fat during roasting is to cut the duck in half, which gives a channel all the way around the perimeter through which melting fat can flow. Because Moulard ducks have beautifully flavored meat, the seasoning in this recipe is kept to a minimum–rosemary, garlic, salt and pepper, and a little reduced balsamic vinegar drizzled over the top before serving.

INGREDIENTS:

1 Moulard or Pekin duckling (about 5 pounds), washed and patted dry

6 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary leaves

1 teaspoon coarse salt

½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

2 teaspoons olive oil

⅓ cup Balsamic Syrup

DIRECTIONS:

Split the duck in half lengthwise, removing the backbone and any visible fat. Place the duck halves, skin-side up, in a sink. Bring at least 2 quarts of water to a boil and pour over the skin of the duck. Tie an end of a 1-foot string to the end of the drumstick on each duck half and hang over a sink or drip pan. Place an electric fan in front of the skin side of the duck halves and turn to medium-high. Allow the duck skin to dry in front of the fan for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Meanwhile mix together the garlic, rosemary, salt, pepper, and olive oil and set aside.

Light a grill for direct medium heat, around 375°F. Place a large drip pan over the fire under the grill grate.

Using a small knife, make several slits (4 to 6) around the bones of the legs and fill with half the garlic-herb mixture. Make a small slit between the skin and meat over the breast section of each duck half. Insert a finger into the slit and move it back and forth, opening up a pocket between the skin and meat over the breast. Rub the remaining garlic-herb mixture in the pocket of each breast half.

Brush and oil the grill grate and place the duck halves directly over the drip pan, skin-side up. Cover the grill and cook until the bottom is browned and the skin is dry.

Turn the duck halves over and grill until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the inside of a thigh registers 165°F, about 20 more minutes.

Brush the bone side of the duck with some of the balsamic syrup and turn over. Brush the skin side with some of the syrup and grill until the underside is richly browned, about 4 minutes. Brush the skin side with another layer of balsamic syrup, turn, and grill until the skin side is browned and dry, about 4 more minutes.

Drizzle with the remaining balsamic syrup and serve.

WHOLE DUCK

Ginger Sake Muscovy Duck

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Muscovy ducks have assertively flavored meat and about 30 percent less fat than Pekin birds, which means the fat-rendering techniques used for grilling Pekin duck are not needed for Muscovy. The downside of Muscovy is that its meat tends to taste a little gamy and when overcooked, it can have a bitter, liver-like edge. These tendencies are curtailed here