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Fire It Up - Andrew Schloss [13]

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liquid similar to a marinade or brine, but usually with a lower concentration of acid or salt. Mops are typically drizzled on long-cooking tough meats during indirect grilling or grill-smoking (usually once or twice an hour) to moisten the surface and help tenderize the tough meat fibers. Tough meats contain a network of thick elastic connective tissue, which has to be softened in order to make the meat fork-tender and succulent. Moisture dissolves the connective tissue and transforms it into gelatin, the rich-tasting substance that gives pulled pork, sliced beef brisket, and grill-braised veal shanks their incomparably delicious mouthfeel. Mops deliver some flavor, but only in a supporting role.

Glazes and Sauces

When a thin sauce contains enough sugar to melt across the surface of an ingredient on the grill, it forms a lustrous, lacquered glaze. Unfortunately, the sugar that makes a glaze beautiful and delicious also makes it burn easily. To prevent burning, only brush on glazes during the last few minutes of grilling. Keep in mind that the flavors of a glaze don’t have enough time to penetrate the interior of an ingredient. Glazes are most effective as flavorful and textural counterpoints used in conjunction with a rub, brine, or marinade.


Sauces, salsas, chutneys, and other accompaniments work best on the table rather than as grilling ingredients. Like glazes, they often have enough sugar to cause scorching or, like salsas and chutneys, they are so chunky that they fall from the grilling food into the fire. To glaze your food with a sauce, puree some of it and brush it on during the last few minutes of grilling. Serve the reserved chunky portion at the table.


The following recipes for rubs, brines, marinades and mops, and sauces are used in recipes throughout this book. But feel free to cast them in new roles with your favorite grilled foods. We have featured these recipes here for that very purpose. We’ve also noted which main ingredients (beef, pork, duck, vegetables, etc.) we think they go best with. If you feel inspired to pair them with something that escaped our imaginations, by all means, follow your instincts.

Dry Rubs

Espresso Rub

Best with beef, lamb, duck, game meats

MAKES ¾ CUP


2 tablespoons finely ground dark-roast coffee

2 tablespoons smoked paprika

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar

2 tablespoons coarse salt

2 tablespoons ground black pepper

1 tablespoon ground ancho chile

1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest


Mix everything together. Store in a tightly closed container in a refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Smokin’ Rub

Best with pork, chicken, turkey, rich fish, shellfish

MAKES ½ CUP


2 tablespoons smoked salt

2 tablespoons smoked paprika

1 tablespoon brown sugar, light or dark

2 teaspoons ground chipotle chile

2 teaspoons ground toasted cumin

1 teaspoon ground black pepper


Mix everything together. Store in a tightly closed container for up to 1 month.

Mustard Wasabi Rub

Best with shellfish, fish, chicken, turkey, pork, vegetables

MAKES ¾ CUP


2 tablespoons ground mustard

2 tablespoons wasabi powder

2 tablespoons sesame seeds

2 tablespoons coarse salt

2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons garlic powder

2 teaspoons ground ginger

½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

½ teaspoon ground black pepper


Mix everything together. Store in tightly closed container for up to 1 month.

Umami Rub

Best with chicken, turkey, fish, shellfish, pork, vegetables

MAKES ABOUT ⅓ CUP


1 tablespoon powdered dulse

2 teaspoons ground celery seed

2 teaspoons powdered wild mushrooms, preferably porcini

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon coarse salt

1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

1 teaspoon dried savory

1 teaspoon dried basil

½ teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

½ teaspoon onion powder

½ teaspoon garlic powder

½ teaspoon dried rosemary (crushed)

½ teaspoon dried oregano leaves

½ teaspoon rubbed dried sage

¼ teaspoon ground bay leaf

⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper


Mix everything together. Store in a tightly closed container for up to 1 month.

Mole Rub

Best with beef, lamb,

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