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MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

¼ cup cocoa powder

2 tablespoons ground ancho chile pepper

2 tablespoons ground guajillo chile pepper

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

2 tablespoons coarse salt

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon ground chipotle chile pepper

1 teaspoon ground anise seeds

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

1 teaspoon ground dried oregano

Pinch of ground clove

Mix everything together. Store in a tightly closed container for up to 1 month.

Moroccan Rub

Best with chicken, turkey, beef, lamb

MAKES ABOUT ⅓ CUP

2 tablespoons dried thyme leaves

1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons coarse salt

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon ground dried lemon peel

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon ground mace or nutmeg

Mix everything together. Store in a tightly closed container for up to 1 month.

Creole Rub

Best with pork, chicken, turkey, shellfish, fish

MAKES ABOUT ⅓ CUP

1 tablespoon paprika

1 tablespoon coarse salt

2 teaspoons ground black pepper

2 teaspoons cayenne pepper

2 teaspoons garlic powder

2 teaspoons onion powder

2 teaspoons dried thyme leaves

1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves

1 teaspoon sugar

Mix everything together. Store in a tightly closed container for up to 1 month.

VARIATION

Chile Rub: (Best with pork, chicken.) Add 1 teaspoon ground ancho chile and ¼ teaspoon ground chipotle chile. Replace the dried thyme with an additional 1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves.

Juniper Rub

Best with beef, veal, pork, game birds, game meats, shellfish

MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP

3 tablespoons juniper berries

1 tablespoon whole almonds

1 teaspoon green peppercorns

2 teaspoons dried thyme leaves

1½ teaspoons ground coriander

1½ teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

1½ teaspoons coarse salt

½ teaspoon ground cloves

Put the juniper berries, almonds, and green peppercorns in a spice grinder and grind coarsely. Or put them in a zipper-lock bag, press out the air, and crush the spices in the bag with the bottom of a heavy skillet. Pour into a cup and mix in the thyme, coriander, lemon zest, salt, and cloves. Store in a tightly closed container for up to 1 month.

Smoked Paprika Rub

Best with beef, veal, pork, lamb, chicken, turkey

MAKES ABOUT ¼ CUP

1 tablespoon smoked paprika

1 tablespoon coarse salt

2 teaspoons dark brown sugar

2 teaspoons ground ancho chile

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

Mix everything together. Store in a tightly closed container for up to 1 month.

VARIATIONS

Smoked Paprika-Saffron Rub: (Best with seafood and beef.) Replace the ground ancho chile with 1 teaspoon crushed saffron threads and 1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves.

Smoked Paprika-Rosemary Rub: (Best with chicken, poultry, pork, veal, lamb.) Replace the ground ancho chile with 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary and 1 teaspoon chopped fresh mint. Add ¼ teaspoon garlic powder and ¼ teaspoon ground cloves.

Coriander Rub

Best with chicken, turkey, pork, lamb

MAKES ABOUT ¼ CUP

1 tablespoon ground coriander

2 teaspoons dried thyme leaves

2 teaspoons paprika

1¼ teaspoons coarse salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

¾ teaspoon sugar

¾ teaspoon ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Mix everything together. Store in a tightly closed container for up to 1 month.

VARIATION

Coriander-Ginger Rub: (Best with chicken, turkey, shellfish, fish.) Replace the turmeric with ½ teaspoon ground mustard, ½ teaspoon ground ginger, and ¼ teaspoon ground cloves.

Dukkah

An Egyptian spice and nut blend. Dukkah often features toasted hazelnuts and sesame seeds along with cumin and coriander. We add dried thyme for subtle pine and citrus aromas. Best with chicken, shellfish, fish, vegetables.

MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP

2 tablespoons blanched hazelnuts (skins removed)

¼ cup sesame seeds

2 tablespoons coriander