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Fire It Up - Andrew Schloss [27]

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pepper or 2 serranos

1 small onion, quartered lengthwise

1 large garlic clove, skin left on

2 teaspoons olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Juice of ½ large lime

½ teaspoon coarse salt

⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper


Light a grill for direct medium-high heat, about 450°F.


Coat the tomatoes, chiles, onion quarters, and garlic all over with oil. Skewer any vegetables that are in danger of falling through your grill grate or use a grill tray.


Brush the grill grate and coat with oil (coat the grill tray if using). Grill the vegetables directly over the heat until charred all over, 2 to 4 minutes per side (the chiles will be done first, the tomatoes and garlic last).


Remove to a cutting board and peel the garlic. Remove the tomato and chile skins, stems, and cores. Remove as many chile seeds as you like to tame the heat. Coarsely chop the vegetables, and then transfer to a small food processor. Add the cilantro and lime juice and process briefly to a coarse puree.


Transfer to a saucepan and simmer over medium heat until the flavors blend, about 5 minutes. Season with the salt and pepper. Serve immediately or refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Green Tea Ponzu Sauce

Best with shellfish and fish

MAKES ABOUT 1¼ CUP


1 cup brewed green tea

2 teaspoons coarse salt

2 teaspoons light soy sauce

2 teaspoons rice vinegar

¼ cup mirin


Mix everything together. Store in a tightly closed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Harissa

Best with beef, lamb, chicken, shellfish, fish, vegetables

MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP


¾ cup (about 1 ounce) dried small red chile peppers

1 tablespoon caraway seeds

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

6 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

Coarse salt to taste

Extra-virgin olive oil as needed


Remove the stems from the chiles. Remove as many of the seeds as desired to tame the heat. Soak the chiles in warm water until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and chop coarsely.


Heat a small heavy skillet over medium-high heat until very hot, about 3 minutes. Add the caraway, coriander, and cumin seeds. Remove from the heat and stir until the spices are aromatic and lightly toasted, about 1 minute.


Grind the toasted seeds, chopped chiles, garlic, and salt in a mortar and pestle, spice grinder, or small food processor to a coarse paste. Add just enough olive oil to make the paste flow, and grind until smooth. Store in a tightly closed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

Chimichurri Sauce

Best with veal, pork, chicken, turkey

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS


4 cups fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves and small stems

2 cups fresh cilantro leaves and small stems

5 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

½ red bell pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped

¼ cup coarsely chopped onion

1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves

1 teaspoon coarse salt

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

⅓ cup sherry vinegar

⅓ cup water

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil


Combine the parsley, cilantro, garlic, bell pepper, and onion in a food processor. Pulse several times until coarsely chopped. Add the remaining ingredients and pulse until coarsely chopped. Scrape into a bowl and refrigerate for at least 2 hours to blend the flavors. Store in the refrigerator in a tightly closed container for up to 1 week.

Hazelnut Picada

Best with Shellfish, fish, chicken

MAKES ABOUT ⅔ CUP


½ cup finely chopped toasted hazelnuts

Pinch of saffron threads

1 garlic clove, minced

2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves

2 tablespoons water

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

Coarse salt to taste

¼ to ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil


Grind the hazelnuts, saffron, garlic, and parsley with a mortar and pestle to a coarse paste, adding the water to help the mixture grind more easily. Stir in the lemon juice and salt. Stir in enough olive oil to make a flowing sauce, and set aside. If you don’t have a mortar and pestle chop the solid ingredients as finely as possible, but don’t use an electric grinder, which would make the picada too smooth. Use within 2 hours or store in the refrigerator

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