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Muhammara

Best with beef, lamb, chicken, cheese

MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS

1 large grill-roasted red pepper (see Know-How, below) or jarred roasted pepper, seeded

⅔ cup walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped

1 slice bread, lightly toasted, outer crust removed

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

1½ tablespoons pomegranate molasses

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

½ to 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon coarse salt

Combine everything in a food processor and process briefly to a coarse puree. Let stand at room temperature for 20 minutes to develop the flavors or refrigerate for up to 3 days.

KNOW-HOW: GRILL-ROASTING PEPPERS

Light a grill for direct medium-high heat, about 425°F. Brush the grill grate and coat with oil. Grill the peppers directly over the heat until soft and blackened all over, 4 to 6 minutes per side. Remove to a paper bag or shallow baking dish. Seal the bag or cover the dish and let rest for 15 to 20 minutes. When cool enough to handle, pull out the stems and cores, with their seeds. Cut into the peppers lengthwise and gently scrape away any lingering seeds or ribs. Peel the skin with your fingers or the edge of a paring knife and discard. Cut the pepper lengthwise into halves, quarters, or narrow strips, as desired.

Mustard Butterscotch

Best with pork, game birds, game meats, cheese

MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP

½ cup sugar

¼ cup water

¼ cup whiskey

2 tablespoons spicy brown mustard

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

¼ teaspoon coarse salt

Mix the sugar and water in a small heavy saucepan. Cook over medium-high heat until the sugar melts and the mixture turns pale amber, washing any sugar clinging to the inside of the pan with a damp pastry brush. Stir the whiskey into the pot; the sugar will immediately crystallize. Stir until the sauce becomes smooth again. Remove from the heat and stir in the mustard, butter, and salt. Serve warm. Store in a tightly closed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Chipotle Chocolate Butter

Best with beef, lamb, duck, berries, cake

MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP

2 ounces semisweet chocolate

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 teaspoons honey

⅛ teaspoon ground chipotle chile

⅛ teaspoon medium-coarse sea salt, preferably fleur de sel

Put the chocolate in a small microwave-safe bowl, cover, and cook at full power until half melted, about 1½ minutes. Remove from the microwave, uncover, and add the butter, honey, and chile, stirring until smooth. Stir in the salt. Serve warm. Store in a tightly closed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Rum Raisin Hard Sauce

Best with cake and fruit

MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP

2 tablespoons raisins, chopped

2 tablespoons dark or golden rum

3 tablespoons honey

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

Soak the raisins in rum in a small bowl for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the honey and cardamom in a small saucepan just until warm, about 20 seconds. Remove from the heat and add the butter, stirring until melted. Serve warm. Store in a tightly closed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

VARIATION

Root Beer-Rum Butter: (Best with sweet vegetables and fruit.) Omit the raisins and honey. Bring the rum and 1 cup root beer to a boil in a small saucepan over high heat. Boil until reduced to about ⅓ cup, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the cardamom and ½ teaspoon salt. Remove from the heat and add the butter, stirring until melted.

Balsamic Chocolate Drizzle

Best with beef, duck, lamb, strong cheese

MAKES ABOUT ⅓ CUP

½ cup balsamic vinegar

½ ounce bittersweet chocolate

Boil the balsamic vinegar in a small saucepan or skillet until reduced by half. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate, stirring until melted. Keep warm until ready to serve. Store in a tightly closed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Glazes

Sweet Soy Glaze

Best with pork, beef, chicken

MAKES ABOUT ⅓ CUP

¼ cup kecap manis (sweet soy sauce), or 2 tablespoons tamari soy sauce plus