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4 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon rice vinegar

1 teaspoon chile-garlic paste

½ teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder

Whisk all the ingredients together in a small bowl. Store in the refrigerator in a tightly closed container for up to 2 weeks.

Brown Sugar Glaze

Best for pork and poultry

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

⅔ cup dark brown sugar

3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

3 tablespoons water

1 teaspoon coarse salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

Mix brown sugar, vinegar, water, salt, and pepper in a small saucepan, and bring to a boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat and add the butter, stirring until melted. Use while still warm, or store in a tightly closed container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks and rewarm before using.

Maple Lacquer

Best with pork

MAKES ½ CUP

¼ cup maple syrup

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

½ teaspoon coarse salt

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Bring maple syrup, vinegar, salt, and pepper to a boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat and add the butter, stirring until melted. Serve warm. Store in a tightly closed container for up to 2 weeks.

VARIATIONS

Juniper Maple Lacquer: (Best with pork, game meats.) Add 6 juniper berries, finely ground, to the maple syrup.

Mustard Maple Glaze: (Best with pork, poultry, game meats.) Add 2 teaspoons brown mustard with the butter.

Spiced Cider Syrup: (Best with pork, poultry, game meats.) Reduce the quantity of maple syrup to 2 tablespoons. Add ½ cup apple cider, ½ teaspoon pumpkin pie spice (see Note), and ¼ teaspoon ground mustard along with the 2 tablespoons syrup, the vinegar, salt, and pepper. Boil until reduced to about ⅓ cup. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter.

NOTE: If you don’t have pumpkin pie spice you can replace it with ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon, ⅛ teaspoon grated nutmeg, ⅛ teaspoon ground ginger, and a pinch of ground cloves.

White Balsamic Citrus Glaze

Best with veal, chicken, turkey, fruit

MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP

½ cup white balsamic vinegar

½ cup white wine

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon sugar

Combine everything in a small saucepan and boil over high heat until reduced and syrupy, about 5 minutes. Cool and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Agave Glaze

Best with pork, chicken, vegetables, fruit

MAKES ABOUT 1¼ CUPS

2 dried ancho chile peppers

1 garlic clove, skin left on

¾ cup tequila

½ cup water

⅓ cup agave nectar

2 tablespoons olive oil

Light a grill for direct medium heat, about 400°F. Discard the stems and seeds from the chiles, then tear them open and flatten with the palm of your hand. Brush the grill grate and coat with oil. Toast the chiles directly over the heat, flattening them with a spatula, until browned in spots, about 10 seconds per side. Transfer to a bowl, cover with hot water, and soak for 30 minutes. Coat the unpeeled garlic with oil and grill directly over the heat until blacked in spots, about 5 minutes, turning once or twice. Let cool, and then peel.

While the chiles are soaking, pour the tequila into a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Continue boiling until reduced to about ½ cup.

Drain the chiles and discard the water. Transfer the chiles and peeled garlic to a blender or small food processor and add the ½ cup water. Process until smooth. Remove the tequila from the heat, scrape the chile puree into the saucepan, and stir in the agave nectar and oil. Simmer over low heat for 5 minutes.

VARIATION

Agave Lime Glaze: (Best with shellfish.) Omit the chiles and chop the fresh garlic. When boiling the tequila, cook it down to ⅓ cup. Remove from the heat and stir in the garlic, agave nectar, oil, and 1 teaspoon fresh lime juice. Simmer for 5 minutes.

Thai Red Curry Lacquer

Best with beef, lamb, chicken, game meats

MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP

2 tablespoons Thai red curry paste

2 tablespoons ketchup

2 tablespoons canola oil

2 tablespoons water

1 tablespoon brown sugar, light or dark

Mix the ingredients together. Store in the