Fire It Up - Andrew Schloss [70]
Since almost all lamb meat comes from animals of the same age, they are often identified by place of origin. The most common types are New Zealand lamb, Australian lamb, Icelandic lamb, and American lamb, in that order. These are not necessarily the largest lamb- and sheep-producing countries in the world, but they are the ones with the best marketing and distribution systems for lamb meat. The New Zealand and Australian lamb industries are the most well established, and they export more lamb than all other countries combined. Inroads have been made by Iceland and the U.S. in recent years. Iceland produces lamb that is mild-tasting, and it is grown in a completely sustainable agricultural system that is devoid of feedlots, antibiotics, and growth hormones.
American lamb is also quite mild, but its real distinction is its size. American spring lamb cuts are typically twice the size of spring lamb from other countries, mostly because they spend time bulking up on grain before slaughter. Bigger cuts mean a better meat-to-bone ratio, which means more edible meat per pound.
Grilling Lamb
Unlike beef, veal, and pork, lambs are still delivered whole to some butchers. They are cut in-house, so good butcher shops will sell all parts of the animal.
As with other four-legged animals, the most tender cuts of lamb come from the rib and loin. But because lambs are fairly young and tender throughout, far more of a lamb can be grilled over direct heat like the most expensive cuts of beef and veal. Still, most people want lamb ribs (either as racks or cut into chops), loin chops, legs, and whole loins, so these cuts tend to be high-priced and more readily available.
Most cuts of lamb are surrounded by a layer of fat, which is covered in a papery film called the fell. Since removing the fell from a leg or shoulder can cause a roast to lose its shape, it is advisable when grill-roasting whole cuts to leave the fell intact. But trim the fell from lamb chops or steaks, because it contracts when exposed to high heat and can cause the meat to curl.
Because lamb is assertively flavored, you can spice it assertively without fear of overpowering it. Many of the countries that consume a lot of lamb have cuisines known for sophisticated spicing. Frequently they infuse lamb meat with spices by stewing it in curries and tagines. Because stewing requires simmering the meat in liquid, it isn’t appropriate for grilling. But we use rubs, brines, marinades, and sauces for a similar flavor barrage.
Buying Lamb
High-quality lamb meat is light red and finely grained. It has moderately thick layers of dry white fat surrounding the meat, but not a great deal of marbling. Young lamb bones are moist and slightly pink. As lamb gets older, the color of the meat darkens to purple, the cuts of meat get larger with more pronounced marbling, the fat darkens toward yellow and becomes softer and moister, and the bones become hard, dry, and white.
Lamb freezes well, and some of the best buys on quality lamb are frozen products. Although lamb is becoming increasingly popular, Americans don’t consume much. So producers find it economical to freeze a sizable proportion of their product in order to give it a longer shelf life. Industrially frozen lamb, if stored properly, will stay in good condition for about 12 months. If you freeze lamb at home, you can keep it for up to 6 months.
The Flavor of Lamb
Lamb has a reputation for being strongly flavored. Pasture feeding lambs, particularly on alfalfa and clover, encourages the development of skatole, an aromatic chemical in lamb fat and meat with a strong aroma. Skatole can be floral and sweet at low levels, but turns fecal when concentrated. It is the reason that pasture-raised