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By Root 667 0

mutton is an acquired taste, and why feed and age are important factors for determining lamb flavor. American lamb remains mild even though it is typically slaughtered past six months, because the animals’ grain-supplemented diet discourages the development of skatole. Icelandic and New Zealand lambs are fed heavily on alfalfa and are typically slaughtered at four months, before the level of skatole in their meat becomes unpleasant.

KNOW-HOW:

FRENCHING A RACK

A frenched rack of lamb is one in which the meat, fat, and membrane from the ends of the rib bones have been stripped away, exposing about 2 inches of cleaned bare bone, which can be used as a handle when eating lamb chops. Frenched racks are readily available, but if you want to french a rack yourself, here’s how:

Make a 2-inch-long slit in the meat on each side of each rib bone. Cut out the meat that has been separated from the bone.

Scrape the membrane, fat, and strands of meat from the exposed part of the bones, trying to get the bones as clean as possible.

KNOW-HOW: TYING A CROWN ROAST

Most butchers will be happy to assemble a crown roast for you, but if you want to do it yourself. You will need:

• Heavy-duty thread (or thin, sturdy twine)

• A large needle with a large eye, preferably curved (an upholstery needle works great)

• Heavy cotton twine

• 2 to 3 racks of lamb, frenched (see above)

On the non-meaty side of the racks make small slits in the meat between the ends of bones (no more than ½ inch long and ¼ inch deep). These slits will spread open when the rack is curved into a crown.

Butt the end of one rack up against another. Using the bones as anchors, sew the ends together, using as few stitches as possible. Repeat with as many racks as you are using.

Stand the sewn racks so that the cleaned ends of the bones are pointing up. Bend the meat into a ring, with the meaty side facing in. As the ring forms, the rib bones will arch outward, looking like the points on a crown. To close the ring, tie the ends together using the bones as anchors; stitch as needed to secure in place.

RACK/RACK

Grill-Roasted Rack of Lamb with Wasabi Panko Crumbs

MAKES 2 SERVINGS

A rack of lamb is a lamb rib roast, and it looks a lot like a standing rib roast of beef shrunk to Lilliputian dimensions. Because the meat is delicate, it is often breaded to help protect it from direct heat. In this recipe the meaty parts of the rack are crusted with a mixture of mustard and wasabi (Japanese horseradish) and panko, which are Japanese-style breadcrumbs. To keep the breadcrumbs from blistering off the lamb as it roasts, the meat is first dusted with flour or cornstarch. The starch absorbs any surface moisture from the meat, which would otherwise steam, causing the casing of breadcrumbs and mustard to become unglued. Panko bread crumbs are chunkier than other bread crumbs, and they are also lighter and crispier. This is because panko crumbs are made from highly aerated bread, yielding crumbs riddled with hundreds of tiny holes. When the crumbs are baked, hot air circulates more completely through the breadcrumbs, causing them to toast inside and out.

INGREDIENTS:

3 tablespoons prepared wasabi, or 2 tablespoons powdered wasabi mixed with 3 tablespoons water

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

⅓ cup panko breadcrumbs

1 tablespoon Mustard Wasabi Rub

1 roast-ready rack of lamb (about 1½ pounds), frenched, excess fat removed

Kosher salt and pepper

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour or cornstarch

DIRECTIONS:

Mix the wasabi and mustard in a small bowl and set aside.

Mix the panko breadcrumbs and rub on a plate and set aside.

Season the meaty parts of the lamb with salt and pepper and coat with flour or cornstarch. Pat off any excess and brush with a thick coating of the mustard mixture. Roll in the seasoned breadcrumbs until thoroughly coated. Wrap the bones with foil to keep them from burning, and set the lamb aside to rest for 30 minutes to set the crumbs.

Light a grill for indirect high heat, about 425°F.

Brush the grill grate and coat