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Chipotle chiles

Delicious, smoky, and fiery hot, these chiles are sold in small cans in the Mexican section of most supermarkets, packed in a vinegary adobo sauce. Because most recipes use just a small amount, you'll want to reserve the remainder of the can for later. Remove the stems and puree the chiles, plus the sauce. Drop by teaspoonfuls onto a sheet of aluminum foil and freeze until set. Pull off the frozen chipotles and freeze in a zip-top plastic freezer bag, where they will keep for at least 6 months. See Sources ([>]).

Piquillo peppers

In Spanish, piquillo means "little beak," which describes these small pointed-tipped triangular peppers. They have a full, rich flavor and come canned or in jars in specialty markets and some supermarkets. Rinse off the brine and pat the peppers dry before using. They are excellent dressed in a vinaigrette or drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with coarse salt. Traditionally, they are stuffed with salt cod or a mixture of fish and potatoes and served warm with a drizzle of olive oil. See Sources ([>]).

HERBS AND SPICES

Fresh herbs

I buy big bunches and store them, unwashed, standing in a plastic-bag-covered glass in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 weeks. Change the water in the glass often and wash only what you need just before using. (Water bruises the leaves and encourages rot.) For the cleanest, brightest taste, add fresh herbs at the end of the cooking time, or add half during the cooking time and save the other half to sprinkle on top. Chop the tender stems of parsley, dill and cilantro along with the leaves. Discard the woody stems.

Dried herbs

While I prefer fresh herbs, in a pinch, I use dried rosemary, oregano, mint and thyme. Simmer dried herbs in a dish to fully rehydrate them and bring out their flavor. Because drying concentrates flavor, dried herbs are strong. To substitute dried for fresh, reduce the amount by half. A trick I find useful to give dried herbs a blast of freshness is to pound them in a mortar with a sprig of Italian parsley and a pinch of coarse salt. If you don't have a mortar and pestle, make a little mound of the dried herb, coarsely chopped Italian parsley and salt and chop fine.

Smoked paprika (Pimentón de la Vera)

This ground red pepper has a deep, smoky aroma and a meaty taste. It comes from an area in Spain called La Vera, where the chiles are dried over wood fires before grinding. Available in specialty stores or by mail order, it comes in three strengths: dulce, or sweet; agridulce, or spicy sweet; and picante, or hot. I prefer the dulce and use it almost exclusively. See Sources ([>]).

Madras curry powder

All curry is a blend of spices, but I am partial to this Southern Indian mix. It contains cinnamon, anise, fenugreek, fennel and cloves, giving it a sweetness that balances the heat of the chiles and pepper. I prefer the reasonably priced Sun Brand Madras curry powder sold in a gold and white tin in many supermarkets. Feel free to substitute your favorite curry powder.

Moroccan spice blend (ras el hanout)

The flavors and proportions of the spices in this spice blend vary widely, but feel free to experiment with making your own from spices you have on hand (see below). Use ras el hanout in egg dishes, sauces and pilafs and on roasted potatoes or other vegetables. To purchase ras el hanout, see Sources ([>]).

• Homemade Moroccan Spice Blend

Combine ¼ to ½ teaspoon each ground cinnamon, ground cardamom, ground ginger, ground allspice, ground turmeric and freshly ground black pepper.

Za'atar

This blend of dried thyme, oregano, sumac and toasted sesame seeds makes a delicious topping, along with a rich-tasting olive oil, for yogurt, feta cheese, pilafs, vegetables and toasted breads (see Middle Eastern Bread Salad, [>]). See Sources ([>]) to purchase za'atar and sumac.

• Homemade Za'atar

Combine 2 teaspoons dried thyme, 2 teaspoons dried oregano, 2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds, 2 teaspoons ground sumac and ½ teaspoon coarse