• Choose a category
• All
• Classic-Fiction

Salt

I prefer the texture and taste of coarse salt. The staple salt in my kitchen is kosher salt. For finishing dishes, I sometimes use sea salt, which has a distinctive mineral taste. I find fine salt or the salt sold in the round boxes too metallic and salty-tasting. Because of the size of the crystals, measure by measure coarse salt contains half the sodium of fine salt.

OTHER FLAVORINGS AND SEASONINGS

Orange and lemon zest

I am partial to the fresh, bright taste that citrus zest imparts. I especially love orange with beets, tomatoes, cauliflower, broccoli and herbs like dill, mint and basil. For fine pieces, grate zest on a Microplane (see [>]). For thin strips, use a vegetable peeler to shave off pieces that are approximately ½ inch wide and 2 to 3 inches long and cut them into long, thin slivers.

Tamari and soy sauce

These two popular sauces for stir-fries are both made from soybeans, but tamari is slightly thicker and a bit smoother in taste. It is available in full-strength or reduced-sodium versions. To preserve its fresh taste, I keep tamari refrigerated once opened.

Preserved lemons

Available in jars at a steep price, this Moroccan staple can be made at home by following this simple recipe. They need several weeks to mature, so make them ahead to keep on hand.

• Homemade Preserved Lemons

Scrub 2 or 3 small lemons, trim the ends and partially cut them into 6 or 8 wedges, without separating the wedges. Spread the wedges apart and rub the cut surfaces with coarse salt, using about 1 tablespoon salt for each lemon. Press the lemons back together and pack them firmly into a clean jar. Squeeze more lemons to make about 1 cup fresh lemon juice. Add the lemon juice to fill the jar. Let stand, tightly closed, at room temperature for about 4 weeks, turning the jar every other day. To use, dice the rinds and add to stews or sprinkle over vegetables. The pulp can be whisked into salad dressings or sauces. Once the jar is opened, store it in the refrigerator.

Rice vinegar

I prefer the unseasoned Marukan brand rice vinegar because it has a light, fresh, moderately sharp taste. I especially like it tossed into rice salads. (See Japanese Rice Vinaigrette with Ginger, [>].)

Tomato paste

I depend on the rich, concentrated flavor and salty edge that tomato paste adds to a pot of soup or stew. Because I rarely use an entire can of paste, I measure out tablespoonfuls onto a sheet of foil and freeze until firm. Once the blobs are firm, I peel them off and store them in a zip-top plastic freezer bag.

SEEDS AND NUTS

Sesame seeds

They are available in creamy white, tan and black. I prefer the tan ones, which don't have the hulls removed and are often sold as "toasted" in Asian markets. If you can only find the hull-less white seeds, you'll have to toast them in a small skillet, stirring constantly, over low heat until golden, 1 to 2 minutes. For black sesame seeds, see Sources ([>]).

Chinese sesame seed paste

This hard paste of ground toasted sesame seeds is darker in color and has a drier consistency and stronger taste than Middle Eastern sesame paste (tahini). Dig the paste out of the jar with a sturdy spoon and discard the excess oil floating on the top.

Pepitas

These hulled pumpkin seeds are often used in Mexican cooking and are sold in the nut or snack section of supermarkets in jars or plastic bags. You can choose from roasted or raw, salted or unsalted. They're great in salads and pilafs or sprinkled on soups. See Sources ([>]).

LIQUID SWEETENERS

Agave nectar

Made from the nectar of the agave, a succulent plant of Mexico, where its name translates as "honey water," this sweetener has a mild, slightly caramel taste. It is favored by some because it has a low glycemic index (about half that of sugar) and by vegans who want an alternative to honey. Agave nectar is available in plastic squeeze bottles in all health food stores and in many high-end grocery stores.

Pomegranate molasses

Sometimes called pomegranate syrup or paste, this is a thick reduction of pomegranate juice with a slightly