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ROSEMARY-SKEWERED SHRIMP MARINATED IN CHIPOTLE

* SERVES 6

15 fresh rosemary sprigs

¼ cup olive oil

1½ tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 garlic cloves, minced

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

2 teaspoons ground chipotle chile

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 pound raw medium shrimp, peeled but tails left intact, and deveined

Lime wedges, for serving

Fresh rosemary grows rampant in my backyard, which is only part of the reason these skewers top my list of favorite appetizers. Rosemary adds smoky flavor and a decorative flourish to a simple shrimp starter. Check the USDA plant hardiness zones to see which herbs thrive in your area. Fresh herbs make a huge difference in any dish, and you’ll save money by growing them at home instead of buying them. The Mediterranean rosemary pairs nicely with the smoky chipotle and fresh cilantro.

Remove the leaves from half the length of each rosemary sprig, and set the sprigs aside. Chop enough of the leaves to make 1½ teaspoons. (Reserve any remaining leaves for another use.)

Combine the olive oil, lime juice, garlic, cilantro, ground chipotle, and chopped rosemary in a medium bowl. Season the marinade with salt and black pepper to taste. Add the shrimp and toss until coated. Let stand for 5 minutes. Then skewer 2 shrimp on each rosemary sprig.

Heat a large heavy sauté pan (or comal) over high heat. Add the skewers and cook for 1 minute per side, or until the shrimp are cooked through. Transfer the skewers to a platter, garnish with the lime wedges, and serve immediately.

TIP USE THE SAME MARINADE ON CHICKEN BREASTS AND ON WHOLE CHICKENS FOR ROASTING. IT’S ALSO GREAT ON ANY WHITE FISH FILLET; JUST ADD A COUPLE OF TABLESPOONS OF BUTTER TO THE PAN DRIPPINGS AFTER THE FISH HAS BEEN COOKED AND REMOVED. DRIZZLE THE SAUCE OVER THE FISH AND SERVE!

TILAPIA CEVICHE

* SERVES 6

2 pounds sushi-grade tilapia, finely diced (see Tips)

15 limes: 14 halved,

1 cut into wedges

½ cup chopped seeded tomato

½ cup chopped seeded cucumber

⅓ cup finely chopped onion

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ cup clam-tomato juice (such as Clamato; optional)

1 tablespoon bottled hot sauce (such as Huichol; optional)

Grilled tostadas (see Tips)

Mayonnaise, for spreading

1 avocado, halved, pitted, peeled, and thinly sliced

I went to a restaurant opening in Los Angeles where they served a trio of ceviches made with parboiled seafood. No! Ceviche should always be made using raw ultra-fresh, or “sushi-grade,” fish. In this recipe I use tilapia, but feel free to substitute whatever your local fishmonger recommends that day. The citrus marinade “cooks” the fish without heat. Traditional ceviche is left to marinate for up to 3 hours, but in this recipe you’ll have fresh, delicious ceviche in 15 minutes. As my abuelo always said, “Don’t worry, the lime kills everything.”

For a more traditional ceviche, omit the clam-tomato juice and the hot sauce, which add a sour and spicy kick.

Place the tilapia in a medium bowl. Squeeze the juice from the lime halves over the fish and mix gently to combine. Chill in the refrigerator until the fish is white throughout, about 15 minutes.

Drain off the lime juice, gently squeezing the fish with your hands. Discard the lime juice. Mix the tomato, cucumber, onion, and cilantro with the fish. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the clam-tomato juice and the hot sauce, if desired.

Spread the tostadas generously with mayonnaise. Top the tostadas with the ceviche. Arrange the avocado slices on top of the ceviche and serve immediately, with the lime wedges alongside.

BAJA-MEDITERRANEAN AHI TUNA

* SERVES 6

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon fresh orange juice

1½ pounds sushi-grade ahi tuna, diced (see Tips)

¼ cup diced peeled seeded cucumber

2 tablespoons capers, drained

2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted (see Tips)

¼ cup sliced pitted kalamata olives