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Fresh cilantro, for serving, optional

Grilled tostadas (see Tips), for serving

This is a simple, refreshing dish that perfectly represents the current trend in Baja-Mediterranean cuisine: the fusion of local ingredients and cooking techniques with European (mostly Mediterranean) ingredients, with an occasional Asian ingredient showing up in the mix. Variations of this dish pop up in restaurants all around Mexico, some adding spicy avocado dressing or fresh orange juice to the mix. I like to keep it simple to let the fresh taste of the ingredients shine through.

Mix the olive oil, soy sauce, lime juice, and orange juice in a small bowl. Set the vinaigrette aside.

Carefully mix the diced tuna, cucumber, capers, toasted sesame seeds, and olives together in a large bowl. Add the vinaigrette and toss gently to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Divide the ceviche among chilled bowls, sprinkle with cilantro, if desired, and serve with grilled tostadas.

TIPS SEAFOOD IS EASIEST TO DICE WHEN IT IS PARTIALLY FROZEN; THIS ALSO MAKES FOR A MUCH CLEANER PRESENTATION. USE A VERY SHARP KNIFE.

TO TOAST THE SESAME SEEDS, ADD THEM TO A SMALL SKILLET SET OVER MEDIUM-LOW HEAT AND COOK, STIRRING FREQUENTLY, UNTIL TOASTED AND FRAGRANT, ABOUT 3 MINUTES.

AS FOR THE GRILLED TOSTADAS, JUST THROW A COUPLE OF CORN TORTILLAS ON AN OUTDOOR GRILL, OR ON A GRILL PAN, AND LET THEM DRY OUT OVER MEDIUM HEAT UNTIL THEY ARE NICE AND CRUNCHY. TEAR THEM INTO LARGE PIECES TO SERVE.

DEVILED EGGS WITH ANCHO, SOUR CREAM, AND CILANTRO

SERVES 10

10 large hard-boiled eggs, peeled and halved lengthwise (see opposite)

1 ancho chile, stemmed and seeded

⅓ cup sour cream

3 tablespoons mayonnaise (or Homemade Chipotle Mayo)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Deviled eggs might not be the first thing you think of when planning an appetizer menu. But when sprinkled with smoky ancho chile and bright cilantro, these retro bites are always the most talked-about dish at any gathering at my house. I use a spice grinder to pulverize the dried chile, but you can find already ground ancho chile in many supermarkets and in Latin markets; you’ll need 1 teaspoon.

Carefully scoop the yolks from the egg halves, dropping them into a large bowl. Arrange the empty egg halves on a large platter.

Tear the chile into small pieces and place it in a spice grinder. Grind to a powder. Add 1 teaspoon of this ground chile to the egg yolks. Add the sour cream, mayonnaise, cilantro, mustard, lemon juice, salt, and pepper, and mash with a fork until smooth.

Spoon the filling into each of the egg halves, mounding it slightly. (The deviled eggs can be prepared 2 hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate.) Serve with 1 teaspoon of the remaining chile powder sifted over the eggs, if desired.

HARD-BOILED

EGGS

How to cook the perfect hard-boiled egg? Start off with week-old eggs because fresh eggs are harder to peel. Place the eggs (as many as you want) in a saucepan and add enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. When the water comes to a rapid boil, cook for exactly 8 minutes. Then remove the pan from the heat and let the eggs cool in the water. Once they are cool, peel under cold running water.

SPICY CRAB CAKES TOPPED WITH GUACAMOLE

SERVES 4

Nonstick cooking spray

1 pound lump crabmeat, picked over to remove any shell and cartilage

2 tablespoons mayonnaise (or Homemade Chipotle Mayo)

¼ cup chopped scallions (white and pale green parts only)

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fresh lime juice

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

½ teaspoon habanero hot sauce

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup panko bread crumbs (Japanese bread crumbs)

2 firm but ripe avocados, halved, pitted, and peeled

2 tablespoons minced onion

Crab cakes get a festive kick when coated in crunchy panko bread crumbs mixed with cilantro and then topped with a simple guacamole.