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Strain the mixture into a large measuring cup, and then pour it into the ramekins, dividing it equally. Add enough water to the baking dish to reach three quarters of the way up the sides of the dish. Carefully transfer the dish to the oven and bake for 45 minutes, or until the edges of the custards are set but the centers still jiggle slightly when the ramekins are tapped.

Remove the baking dish from the oven, and transfer the ramekins to a wire rack. Let the custards cool completely; then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate them overnight.

Preheat the broiler.

Sprinkle 1 tablespoon sugar evenly over each custard. Place the ramekins on a small baking sheet and broil for 2 minutes, or until the sugar just starts to caramelize. (Alternatively, you can use a kitchen torch if you have one.) Refrigerate the custards for about 30 minutes, or until the tops harden, and then serve.

TIP DATES ARE MOST PREVALENT AT SUMMER’S END, WHEN DIFFERENT VARIETIES FROM BOTH CALIFORNIA AND THE MIDDLE EAST START SHOWING UP IN MARKETS, BUT THEY ARE WIDELY AVAILABLE YEAR-ROUND. WHILE THE MEDJOOL DATE IS CONSIDERED THE PREMIER VARIETY, ALL DATES HAVE VERY SIMILAR SUGAR CONTENT AND CAN BE USED IN THIS RECIPE. LOOK FOR SMOOTH AND SHINY FRUIT AND AVOID ANY THAT ARE SHRIVELED OR HAVE SUGAR CRYSTALS ON THE SURFACE. IF SUGAR CRYSTALS FORM AFTER YOU HAVE PURCHASED THEM, YOU CAN STEAM THE DATES FOR A FEW MINUTES TO ELIMINATE THEM. STORED IN THE FRIDGE, DATES CAN LAST UP TO ONE YEAR.

PASTEL DE TRES LECHES

SERVES 8 TO 10

Unsalted butter, for the pan

1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for the pan

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

4 large eggs, separated

1½ cups sugar

½ cup whole milk

One 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk

One 12-ounce can evaporated milk

1 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons orange liqueur, such as Grand Marnier

Italian Meringue (recipe follows; optional)

This is a decadent and classic Mexican cake that you have to make at least once in your life (and if you do, I guarantee you’ll make it again). A firm-textured cake, it holds up to being soaked in three kinds of milk/cream (hence the name tres leches). Traditionally it’s topped with sweetened beaten raw egg whites, which could be dangerous for small kids and pregnant women, two groups that really enjoy this cake. An Italian meringue, which is made of cooked egg whites, is the perfect solution.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour a 10-inch cake pan with 2-inch-high sides, and then line the bottom with parchment paper. Butter the paper.

Mix the flour, baking powder, and cinnamon in a medium bowl.

Using an electric mixer, whip the egg whites until frothy. With the mixer running, gradually add the sugar and beat until stiff peaks form. Beat in the egg yolks, one at a time, blending well after each addition. Add the flour mixture in three additions, alternating with the whole milk in two additions.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 30 minutes, or until a tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Let the cake cool slightly in the pan; then invert it onto a platter with 1-inch-high sides.

Pierce the top of the warm cake all over with a thick skewer. Mix the sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk, heavy cream, and orange liqueur, and pour over the cake. Cover and refrigerate until cold, about 3 hours, or overnight.

Serve as is or frost the top with Italian meringue, if desired.

Italian meringue

MAKES 8 CUPS

3 large egg whites, at room temperature

½ cup sugar

⅛ teaspoon cream of tartar

Italian meringue is a firm cooked meringue made with boiling sugar syrup. It can be used alone as a frosting, or I sometimes pipe it into rosettes and dry them out in a low oven for tasty treats. Use a candy thermometer to make sure the sugar syrup reaches 235°F. By adding the hot syrup to the egg whites while whipping, you’ll be cooking them to approximately 140°F, the pasteurization temperature for eggs.

Put the egg whites in the bowl of an electric mixer,