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While the whites are slowly whipping, swirl ⅓ cup water and the sugar in a medium-size heavy saucepan over low heat until the sugar dissolves. Then raise the heat to medium-high and boil without stirring until the mixture registers 235°F on a candy thermometer and is the texture of corn syrup. Remove the pan from the heat.

Once the egg whites are foamy, add the cream of tartar to them and beat until soft peaks form. With the mixer running, add the hot syrup in a slow, steady stream. Beat until the whites are stiff and glossy and cool to the touch.

Use the meringue immediately.

COCADA

EASY COCONUT BARK

SERVES 6

Nonstick cooking spray

5½ cups sweetened shredded coconut (one 14-ounce package)

½ cup sweetened condensed milk

These traditional baked coconut squares are served by street vendors all over Mexico. They take no time at all to prepare and are great for picnics and for packing in lunch boxes—if they last long enough! My favorite part of this dessert is the crunchy golden edges. When I make it at home, they disappear first.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 13 x 9-inch glass baking dish with nonstick cooking spray.

Mix the coconut and condensed milk in a bowl until well blended. Spread the mixture out in the prepared baking dish and bake for 20 minutes, or until the coconut is evenly browned and dark and crisp at the edges. Cool slightly, and then cut into squares. Serve warm or at room temperature.

MESSY CAJETA WHIPPED CREAM NAPOLEON

SERVES 4

Nonstick cooking spray

All-purpose flour, for rolling

1 frozen puff pastry sheet (half of a 17.3-ounce package), thawed

1 cup heavy cream

¼ cup cajeta, dulce de leche, or thick caramel sauce

¼ cup powdered sugar, plus more for sprinkling

Assortment of fresh berries, for garnish

The fact is, I could come up with a hundred different cajeta recipes. Cajeta, a caramel-like spread traditionally made with goat’s milk, is readily available all over Mexico and is known as dulce de leche in other parts of Latin America. Cajeta, which translates as “small box,” used to refer to the box in which the cajeta was sold. Now you can find it in a glass jar, a much more convenient presentation. It is found in many supermarkets and Latin markets and is available in different flavors, the most common being wine and strawberry. Any flavored cajeta would work well in this recipe. Whipped with cream and a little sugar, it is a perfectly sweetened filling for this tasty treat—which is just as delightful as it is messy to eat.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Spray a large baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray.

Sprinkle a flat surface and a rolling pin with flour. Roll out the puff pastry sheet to ⅛-inch thickness. Cut it into three 13 x 4-inch rectangles. Sprinkle one of the rectangles generously with flour; then fold it, wrap it loosely in plastic wrap, and transfer it to the refrigerator.

Place the 2 remaining puff pastry rectangles on the prepared baking sheet. Spray the underside of a second baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray, and set it on top of the puff pastry rectangles (this is to prevent the puff pastry from rising). Bake for 12 minutes, or until the puff pastry is golden. Let the puff pastry cool completely. Repeat with the remaining puff pastry rectangle, unfolding the dough and brushing off the flour and making sure the baking sheets are cool before using them. (The puff pastry can be prepared 1 day ahead. Wrap it tightly in plastic wrap and store at room temperature.)

Using an electric mixer, whip the cream, cajeta, and powdered sugar in a bowl to form stiff peaks. (The cajeta whipped cream can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and keep refrigerated.)

Cut each pastry rectangle into 4 squares. Place 1 puff pastry square on a plate. Top it with ¼ cup of the cajeta whipped cream. Top with a second puff pastry square, then ¼ cup cajeta whipped cream. Top with a third puff pastry square, and sprinkle it generously with powdered sugar. Repeat with the remaining puff pastry squares