Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [115]
kelp forests surrounding the island. Overlooks at Cathedral Cove, Pinniped Point, and Inspiration Point offer visitors excellent views of them.
Although scrubby brownish vegetation covers the island for most of the year, winter rains bring the island's flora to vibrant life—the bright blossoms of the yellow coreopsis, or tree sunflower, are often so numerous that they're visible from the mainland.
Organized Tours & Ranger Programs. Anacapa is the most visitor-friendly island in the park: Rangers, volunteers, and concessionaire-employed naturalists lead guided nature walks daily during the summer, and self-guided trail booklets are available at the visitor center on the island.
At 2pm every Tuesday and Thursday from Memorial Day through Labor Day, rangers plunge into the kelp forest off the island with a video camera. The rangers allow visitors to view the undersea world on the monitor on the island's landing dock (or on a large screen in the mainland visitor center).
Historic & Man-Made Attractions. In 1853, the steamer Winfield Scott grounded and sank off the coast of Middle Anacapa (remains of the wreck can still be seen off the north coast of the islet), prompting the government to build a 50-foot tower supporting an acetylene beacon.
In 1932, the U.S. Lighthouse Service replaced the tower with the present lighthouse and facilities on East Anacapa. The fully automated lighthouse used the original handmade Fresnel lens until 1990, when a more modern lighting system was installed. The original lead crystal lens is now on display in the island's visitor center. The U.S. Coast Guard operates the lighthouse. Visitors are warned not to approach the building—the foghorn can cause permanent hearing damage. Special ranger-led tours are available.
Today the other lighthouse service buildings house the visitor center and ranger residences. A churchlike building holds two 55,000-gallon water tanks that supply fresh water for the residences and fire fighting. It was designed to resemble a Spanish mission to discourage snipers who used to take pot-shots at the wooden tanks.
Day Hikes. The 2-mile, figure-eight Loop Trail on East Anacapa serves up plenty of great views and is a good introduction to the island's natural history. Follow signs from the boat-landing area to the trailhead. A pamphlet describing the island's most significant features is available in the small visitor center. Naturalists also lead guided nature walks daily during the summer.
Camping. Camping is allowed on East Anacapa year-round, but don't bring more than you're able to carry up the 154-stair, half-mile trail from the landing cove. The campground has seven sites and a capacity of 30 people. The campsites are primitive; there is no shade, and food and water are not available. Pit toilets are provided. No fires are allowed, but cooking is permitted on enclosed, backpack-type stoves. Bring earplugs and steer clear of the foghorn. There is a nightly $10 per campsite charge, and a reservation is required (☎ 800/365-CAMP [2267]; http://reservations.nps.gov). Campground reservations fill quickly, so be sure to call well in advance.
EXPLORING SANTA CRUZ
By far the biggest of the islands—nearly 100 square miles—Santa Cruz is also the most diverse. It has huge canyons, year-round streams, beaches, cliffs, the highest mountain in the Channel Islands (2,400 ft.), abandoned cattle and sheep ranches, and Chumash village sites.
The pastoral central valley that separates the island's two mountains is still being created by a major tectonic fault. The island is home to seemingly endless displays of flora and fauna, including 650 species of plants, nine of which are endemic; 140 land-bird species; and a small group of other land animals, including the endangered island fox. Lying directly between cold northern and warm southern waters, the waters off the island contain a marine community representing 1,000 miles of coastline.
Originally called Limuw by the Chumash (who believed the island was the site of their creation,