Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [116]
Much of the island is still privately owned; the Nature Conservancy holds the western three-quarters. In 1997 the Park Service took over the eastern end from the Gherini family, which had operated a sheep ranch here. Most visitors come to Scorpion Ranch and Smuggler's Ranch on the Park Service's land. Much of the most beautiful land is on Nature Conservancy property, which includes Santa Cruz's lush Central Valley and the islands' highest peaks.
Unfortunately, the island's ranching heritage has left its mark on the land and created a serious domino effect. In 2003, the last of the island's feral sheep population (which badly overgrazed the land) was shipped off; the focus in 2005–06 was on eradicating feral pigs, likewise ranching remnants. The pigs provided food for golden eagles, who moved in after DDT decimated the native bald eagle population in the 1970s. Bald eagles don't hunt island foxes, but golden eagles do; the population boom in the latter ultimately resulted in a 93% decline in the island fox population. The multiyear restoration plan involves removing golden eagles, reintroducing island foxes and bald eagles, and controlling the growth of fennel.
It's difficult, but not impossible, to get access to the more pristine Conservancy land; Island Packers (see "Getting There & Gateways," earlier) runs occasional trips to Prisoner's Harbor. At one point, it was possible to arrange stays at Christy Ranch on the windswept west end of the island and visits to the Main Ranch in the Central Valley, but at press time the ranches were under restoration, and access was limited. Contact the Nature Conservancy (☎ 805/642-0345, ext. 510) for up-to-date information.
Valdez Cave (also known as Painted Cave for its colorful rock types, lichens, and algae) is the largest and deepest known sea cave in the world. The huge cave stretches nearly a quarter of a mile into the island and is nearly 100 feet wide. The entrance ceiling rises 160 feet, and in the spring, a waterfall tumbles over the opening. Located on the northwest end of the island, the cave can only be entered in a dinghy or kayak. See "The Extra Mile: Exploring the Coastline & Waters off the Channel Islands," later in this chapter.
Historic & Man-Made Attractions. After more than a century of ranching, Santa Cruz has acquired its fair share of historic buildings, including adobe houses, barns, blacksmith and saddle shops, wineries, and a chapel. The ranch house and adobe bunkhouse at Scorpion Ranch are private residences today, just as they were in the early 20th century. All around Scorpion Ranch, fascinating ranch and farm implements, some dating back decades, speckle the landscape. The Park Service has plans to include some in a visitor center on the island. Also planned is an interpretive center in the historic buildings.
Day Hikes. Most hikes in the national parkland of Santa Cruz begin at Scorpion Ranch. The easiest and shortest is the Historic Ranch Walk. The ranch area is visible from the beach. This hike is basically the beginning leg of all the hikes described below, so if you are planning to take one of those, you don't really need to allocate much additional time for this hike.
The hike up to Cavern Point leads you to the bluffs northwest of Scorpion Harbor, providing spectacular views of the north coast of the island. Between January and March, this is an excellent vantage from which to spot migrating gray whales. Follow the main trail from the beach through the ranch area. Beyond the ranch, look for the first side canyon on your right (west). Follow the signed trail through the eucalyptus grove and up the side of the canyon to
Cavern Point.