Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [117]
A little longer than the Cavern Point hike, the hike up to the Potato Harbor Overlook also provides magnificent coastal views. Head past the ranch about .75 mile until you come to a big break in the eucalyptus trees. A trail sign marks the spot. Follow the old road on the right (west) until you reach the bluff trail to Potato Harbor Overlook. Avoid cliff edges, and return the way you came. The round-trip is 4 miles and is rated moderate due to a 1-mile uphill climb.
For another coastal view, you can head up to Scorpion Bluffs. Approximately 100 feet past the ranch area, before the eucalyptus grove, head left (east) on the road/trail across the streambed to the base of Smugglers Road. At the top of the road, follow the trail that goes along the bluffs. Avoid cliff ledges, and return the way you came. The round-trip is 2 miles and is rated moderate for its 300-foot elevation gain.
Your best chance to see the endemic island jay is to head up Scorpion Canyon. Follow the main road/trail though the ranch area and into the eucalyptus grove. The trail will eventually wind in and out of an old streambed before reaching the first oak tree after approximately 1½ miles. You may continue up the streambed, but the terrain is rocky and uneven.
For those with a little more time, the hike to Smugglers Cove is a nice way to spend a day. At 7 miles round-trip, it is not recommended for visitors with time constraints. Easy to follow, the hike follows Smugglers Road all the way from Scorpion Ranch to the white sand and cobblestone beaches of Smugglers Cove. If the Park Service has not removed all of them by your visit, you may see a few feral pigs left over from the island's ranching days. Because of the 600-foot elevation gain over many uphill sections, the hike is rated strenuous.
There are also occasional guided hikes through the Nature Conservancy property; many begin at Pelican Bay. For current information, contact the Nature Conservancy (☎ 805/642-0345, ext. 510).
Camping. Camping is allowed at the Scorpion Ranch Campground on the east end of Santa Cruz year-round. All gear must be carried about a half-mile to the numerous sites. The campsites are primitive, but there is plenty of shade. Potable water is available; food is not. Pit toilets are provided. Cooking is permitted on enclosed backpack-type stoves, and open fires are allowed only on the beach from December to May. There is a nightly $10 per campsite charge. A reservation is required and can be obtained at the park visitor center or by calling ☎ 800/ 365-CAMP [2267] or visiting http://reservations. nps.gov. Camping is not allowed on Nature Conservancy land (the western 76% of the island).
EXPLORING SANTA ROSA
Windy Santa Rosa was California's only singly owned, entirely private island until the 1980s, when the National Park Service bought it from the Vail and Vickers ranching company for $30 million. In 1998, the company ceased all cattle operations, ending nearly 2 centuries of ranching on the islands that now form the national park.
The second-largest island in the park, Santa Rosa consists of widely different landscapes. Because of its ranching past, rolling nonnative grasslands cover about 85% of the island. Elsewhere are high mountains with deep canyons. A unique coastal marsh on the east end of the island is among the most extensive freshwater habitats found on any of the Channel Islands.
As with Santa Cruz, the island's size allows for a fantastic variety of life. Although the impact of ranching has been severe, native plant species survive, primarily in the rocky canyons and on the upper slopes. Santa Rosa is home to a large concentration of endangered plant species, 34 of which occur only on the islands. Torrey pines grow only in two places. One is on Santa Rosa, where two ancient groves lie