Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [118]
Santa Rosa is also home to the diminutive island fox, a tiny cousin of the gray fox that has become nearly fearless as it has evolved in the predator-free island environment. Paralleling the situation on Santa Cruz, golden eagles have nearly wiped out the fox population in recent years, leading to a captive breeding program; park biologists are keeping a close eye on the situation.
The kelp beds that surround the island function as an invaluable nursery for the sea life that feeds the Channel Islands' marine mammals and seabirds.
Historic & Man-Made Attractions. The Chumash lived on Wima (their name for the island) until they were moved to mainland missions around 1820.
Through radiocarbon dating, scientists have been able to date human use of the island back 13,000 years, making Santa Rosa an invaluable archaeological resource. More than 500 largely undisturbed archaeological sites have been recorded, and visitors are asked to be especially careful not to disturb any sites that they encounter. In 1959 archaeologist Philip Orr discovered an individual we now refer to as Arlington Woman. Lacking evidence of a traditional burial site, scientists believe she was killed accidentally some 13,000 years ago, possibly while gathering food. Her bones may be the oldest human remains found in the United States.
The island also provides an important fossil record. A fossilized pygmy mammoth skeleton, carbon-dated at 12,000 years old, was found on the island in 1994. It is the most complete specimen ever discovered.
The island also provides insights into a more modern culture, with the buildings and other remains of a cattle ranch. Owned by the Vail and Vickers Company, it operated here from 1902 until 1998, with few changes except the addition of modern vehicles.
Day Hikes. Because of its large size, Santa Rosa offers a diverse array of possible hikes. To get to all the trailheads, follow signs from the boat-landing area.
The white sands of Water Canyon Beach are a popular destination for hikers and day-trippers. The trail is 4 miles round-trip and is rated easy.
The Lobo Canyon Trail descends through Lobo Canyon to a Chumash village site and on to an excellent tide-pooling area. Unlike most mainland tide pools, the Channel Islands' inter-tidal zones have not been destroyed by human impact on the fragile habitats. The hike is 10 miles round-trip and is rated moderate.
The hike to the island's endemic stand of Torrey pines is 5 miles round-trip and affords unbelievable views. East Point Trail is a strenuous 12-mile round-trip that also allows for more views of these rare trees, as well as the brackish marsh at the island's eastern tip.
Camping. Camping is allowed in Water Canyon on Santa Rosa's northeast end year-round. All gear must be carried 1½ miles from the pier on Bechers Bay. The campground has water and chemical toilets, and each of the 15 sites has its own picnic table and wind-break. There is a nightly $10 charge per campsite for the campground; the required reservations can be obtained by calling ☎ 800/365-CAMP [2267] or visiting http://reservations.nps.gov.
Camping is permitted on a limited number of beaches around the island from June to December. Although the winds will definitely test your tent, this is a good option for sea kayakers and divers who don't want to lug their equipment all the way into Water Canyon. A free permit (☎ 805/658-5711) is necessary.
EXPLORING SAN MIGUEL
People often argue about the location of the wildest place left in the Lower 48. They bat around places such as Montana, Colorado, and Idaho. Curiously, no one ever thinks to consider San Miguel, the farthest west of the Channel Islands. They should, for this 9,500-acre island is a wild, wild place. The wind blows constantly here, and fog can shroud the island