Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [144]
By the 1970s, environmentalists had become gravely concerned with the region's protection. Destructive off-road use, the theft of rare desert plants, the plunder of archaeological sites, and the killing of threatened desert tortoises all endangered the delicate ecological balance. Then, in 1994, Pres. Bill Clinton signed the California Desert Protection Act, creating Mojave National Preserve.
Thus far, the Mojave's elevated status hasn't attracted hordes of sightseers, and devoted visitors are happy to keep it that way. Unlike a fully protected national park, the national preserve designation allows hunting, and continued grazing and mining within the preserve's boundaries are sore spots for ardent preservationists.
Flora & Fauna. There's much more life in the Mojave Desert than the human eye can immediately discern. Many animals are well camouflaged or nocturnal (or both), but if you tread lightly and keep your eyes sharpened, the experience is rewarding. Wildlife includes the hopping kangaroo rat, ground squirrels, cottontails and jackrabbits, bobcats, coyotes, lizards, snakes, and the threatened desert tortoise. Consider yourself lucky to spot elusive bighorn sheep or shy mule deer. Migrating birds that stop off in the Mojave are met by permanent residents such as quail, piñon jays, sparrows, noisy cactus wrens, and the distinctive roadrunner.
You're certain to see familiar desert plants such as the fragrant creosote bush, several varieties of cacti (including the deceptively fluffy-looking cholla, or "teddy bear"), and several strains of yucca. On and around Cima Dome grows the world's largest and densest Joshua tree forest. Botanists say that Cima's Joshuas are more symmetrical than their cousins elsewhere in the Mojave. The dramatic colors of the sky at sunset provide a breathtaking backdrop for Cima's Joshua trees, some more than 25 feet tall and several hundred years old.
Other desert flora include therapeutic Mormon tea, cliff rose, aromatic blue sage, desert primrose, and cat's-claw; these flowering plants are among many that make the spring wildflower season a popular time to visit. Junipers, nut-bearing pinyon pines, and scrub oaks are found in the preserve's higher elevations.
JUST THE FACTS
Getting There. I-15, the major route between Los Angeles and Las Vegas, extends along the northern boundary of the preserve. I-40, the major route between southern California and Arizona, is the southern access route.
Common entry points include Kelbaker Road, which crosses the preserve from Baker to Kelso. There are Kelbaker Road exits from both I-15 and I-40. The Essex Road exit from I-40, 25 miles east of Kelbaker Road, is the access point for Providence Mountains State Recreation Area (Mitchell Caverns) and two other campgrounds. The Cima Road exit from I-15 in Mountain Pass leads into the center of the preserve.
The town of Nipton, technically outside preserve boundaries, is a common destination for Mojave travelers. Take Nipton Road from I-15, within sight of the Nevada border.
The nearest airport is Las Vegas's McCarran International, discussed earlier in this chapter.
Information & Visitor Centers. Contact the Superintendent, Mojave National
Preserve, 2701 Barstow Rd., Barstow, CA 92311 (☎ 760/252-6100; www.nps.gov/ moja).
The best source for up-to-date weather conditions and a free map is the Mojave National Preserve–Baker Information Center, 72157 Baker Blvd. (under the "World's Tallest Thermometer"), Baker, CA 92309 (☎ 760/733-4040), which offers a superior selection of books. As of 2006, the restored Kelso Depot in the heart of the preserve will also be open daily as a primary visitor center. Additional information and maps are available inside the preserve at the Hole-in-the-Wall Ranger Station (☎ 760/928-2572), generally open on weekends as staffing allows.
Fees & Warnings. Entry to the preserve is free. Campsites cost $12.