Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [145]
Seasons & Climate. Mojave National Preserve's 1.6 million acres lie in the high desert, with elevations from 1,000 feet to nearly 8,000 feet. Although conditions from December to February can be windy and cold with a dusting of snow, summers often see blistering temperatures exceeding 100°F (38°C). The best time to visit is between March and May, when temperatures are mild and wildflowers are in bloom. October and November have comfortable weather and very few visitors. The area gets precious little rainfall, but what does occur (usually during winter) can begin suddenly and cause flash flooding.
Seasonal Events. Best between February and May, the wildflower viewing depends on weather conditions such as rainfall, sunshine, and temperatures, but you can bet on seeing the brilliant blooms somewhere in the preserve each year. Rangers can help direct you to the flowers currently in bloom.
EXPLORING THE PRESERVE BY CAR
At the risk of discouraging you from leaving your car to really experience the Mojave, we must admit that Kelbaker Road provides an excellent opportunity to sample the preserve with a minimal expenditure of time or trouble. The well-paved two-lane road, crossing the preserve roughly from north to south between I-15 and I-40, takes about 1 hour one-way without stops.
You'll drive through the eerie blackened landscape of lava beds and cinder cones, visit the elegant Kelso Depot, and see the towering golden mounds of Kelso Dunes. This 45-square-mile formation of magnificently sculpted sand dunes is famous for its "booming," a low rumble emitted when small avalanches or blowing sands pass over the underlying layer. Geologists speculate that the extreme dryness of the East Mojave Desert, combined with the wind-polished, rounded nature of the sand grains, has something to do with the musicality. Sometimes the low rumbling resembles a Tibetan gong; other times it sounds like a 1950s doo-wop musical group. After Kelso Dunes you'll end your trip with views of the Granite Mountains, where erosion has removed all but the most resilient chunks of extraordinarily hard rock, leaving piles of rosy-hued boulders that are alternately smooth and jagged.
Leading northeast from Kelso Depot, the Kelso-Cima Road provides another scenic diversion, running alongside railroad tracks to the tiny town of Cima (Spanish for "summit"), at the foot of a geological oddity called Cima Dome, an almost perfectly rounded landform rising 1,500 feet above the desert. The dome is a batholith, created by molten rock that, unlike its volcano cousin, stopped rising below the surface. This unusual formation is blanketed by majestic Joshua trees. The community of Cima consists of a tiny U.S. post office and a ramshackle market. (Don't be fooled by its boarded-up appearance.) Be prepared for the many heart-stopping dips in the Kelso-Cima Road; they're a favorite with young backseat passengers.
Visitors with four-wheel-drive vehicles or especially rugged two-wheel drives can explore the Wildhorse Canyon Road, looping from Mid Hills to Hole-in-the-Wall, at the preserve's heart. In 1989, this short route was declared the nation's first official "Backcountry Byway," an honor that federal agencies bestow on America's most scenic back roads. The 11-mile horseshoe-shaped route crosses wide-open country dotted with cholla cactus and, in season, delicate purple, yellow, and red wildflowers. Dramatic volcanic slopes and flat-top mesas tower over the low desert.
ORGANIZED TOURS & RANGER PROGRAMS
The Park Service holds excellent evening ranger programs intermittently at Hole-in-the-Wall campground; they're worth planning a stop around. The programs might include talks on the endangered desert tortoise or the area's violent geological history, or an evening slide program. Guided walks and hikes, such as guided hikes to Kelso Dunes or Banshee Canyon, are also offered.