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By Root 2987 0

Business Loop I-90 (P.O. Box 912), Sundance, WY 82729 (☎ 888/315-2378 or 307/283-1611; fax 307/283-2537). It offers 32 well-maintained basic motel rooms, all air-conditioned and with TVs and phones. The double rate is about $65 during the summer and fall, and a bit less in winter and spring. Major credit cards (AE, DISC, MC, V) are accepted. Another good choice is the Best Western Inn at Sundance, 2719 E. Cleveland, at I-90 Exit 189 (P.O. Box 927), Sundance, WY 82729 (☎ 800/238-0965 or 307/283-2800; fax 307/283-2727). It offers everything you would expect from a top-notch Best Western, at rates of $91 to $121 in summer, and much lower prices from fall through spring.

There are two moderately priced restaurants, open year-round, across the street from the Best Value Inn Bear Lodge: Aro Restaurant, 205 Cleveland St. (☎ 307/283-2000), is open daily from 7am to 10pm in summer, with slightly shorter hours in winter. It serves a home-style American menu of sandwiches, burgers, and steak, plus a few Mexican dishes, with lunch prices from $4 to $8 and dinner prices from $8 to $20. Higbee's Café, 101 N. 3rd St. (☎ 307/283-2165), generally serves breakfast and lunch Monday through Friday, plus dinner on Wednesday. It offers homemade soups and a variety of sandwiches, with most prices from $4.50 to $5.50, and serves breakfast anytime.

Immediately outside of the monument's boundaries, climbing guru Frank Sanders runs the Devils Tower Lodge, P.O. Box 66, Devils Tower, WY 82714 (☎ 888/314-5267 or 307/467-5267; www.devilstowerlodge.com), an eclectic four-room B&B in the former superintendent's residence. The rooms all have private bathrooms; the facilities are geared towards climbers, and the communal mood makes guests feel as if they're staying in a home instead of an inn. Room rates ($115–$170) include full breakfast. Credit cards (MC, V) are accepted.

In Hulett, try the Hulett Motel, 202 Main St., Hulett, WY 82720 (☎ 307/ 467-5220; www.hulettmotel.com). Double rates are $65 to $85; major credit cards (DISC, MC, V) are accepted. Rooms are well maintained, and there's also a row of trim and tidy cabins on the Belle Fourche River.

15

GLACIER NATIONAL PARK & WATERTON LAKES NATIONAL PARK

by Eric Peterson

MAJESTIC AND WILD, THIS VAST PRESERVE BECKONS VISITORS WITH stunning mountain peaks (many covered year-round with glaciers), verdant mountain trails that cry out for hikers, and a huge diversity of plant and animal life. Every spring,

Glacier is a postcard come to life: Wildflowers carpet its meadows; bears emerge from months of hibernation; and moose, elk, and deer play out the drama of birth, life, and death. The unofficial mascot in these parts is the grizzly, a refugee from the high plains.

Here you'll see nature at work: The glaciers are receding (the result of global warming, some say), and avalanches have periodically ravaged Going-to-the-Sun Road, the curving, scenic 50-mile road across the park. For the time being, the park is intact and very much alive, a treasure in a vault that opens to visitors.

Named in honor of the slow-moving glaciers that carved awe-inspiring valleys throughout this expanse of over 1 million acres, Glacier National Park exists because of the efforts of George Bird Grinnell, a 19th-century magazine publisher and cofounder of the Audubon Society. Following a pattern established with Yellowstone and Grand Teton, Grinnell lobbied for a national park to be set aside in the St. Mary region of Montana, and in May 1910 his efforts were rewarded. Just over 20 years later, it became, with its northern neighbor Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada, Glacier-Waterton International Peace Park—a gesture of goodwill and friendship between the governments of two countries.

If your time is limited, simply motor along Going-to-the-Sun Road, viewing the dramatic mountain scenery. Visitors with more time will find diversions for both families and hard-core adventurers; while some hiking trails are suitable for tykes, many more will challenge those determined to conquer and