Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [153]
To truly experience the park requires slightly more effort, interest, and spunk than a drive through—abandon the pavement for even the shortest and easiest hiking trail, and you'll discover a window into Glacier's soul.
Avoiding the Crowds. The simplest way to leave the crowds behind is to avoid visiting the park in its peak season, from
mid-June to Labor Day. August is the busiest month. Late September and October, when fall colors light up the park, are excellent months to visit. A highlight is the display the larch trees put on throughout the western portions of the park. Entire hillsides turn bright yellow, fading to a dull orange glow as October wanes.
If visiting in the off season isn't possible, consider the following: Find a trailhead that is equidistant from two major points, and head for the woods. Because most people congregate in close proximity to the major hotels, this strategy should gain you a measure of solitude. If you must drive, to make the trip more enjoyable (and traffic-free), journey across the Going-to-the-Sun Road before 8:30am; you'll be astounded at the masterful job Mother Nature does of painting her mountains. You can always see more wildlife in the early morning (or just before dark) than at other times.
Just the Facts
GETTING THERE & GATEWAYS
Glacier National Park is in the northwest corner of Montana, on the Canadian border. The closest cities with airline service are Kalispell, 29 miles southwest of the park, and Great Falls, 200 miles southeast. If you're driving, the easiest ways to reach the park are from U.S. 2 and U.S. 89.
Among the park's entrances are those at West Glacier, Camas Road, St. Mary, Many Glacier, Two Medicine, and Polebridge. Access is primarily at either end of Going-to-the-Sun Road: at West Glacier on the southwest side and St. Mary on the east.
From the park's western boundary, you may enter at Polebridge to reach Bowman and Kintla lakes or take Camas Road to Going-to-the-Sun Road.
The following east-side entrances are primarily hiking trails designed to access specific places and do not necessarily take you into the heart of the park: Essex, East Glacier, Two Medicine, Cut Bank, and Many Glacier.
Visitor entrance passes are sold at the West Glacier, Two Medicine, Many Glacier, Polebridge, and St. Mary Park entrances. Entrance is severely restricted during the winter, when most of Going-to-the-Sun Road is closed. (See "Seasons & Climate," below.)
The Nearest Airports. Glacier Park International Airport, north of Kalispell at 4170 U.S. 2 (☎ 406/257-5994; www.glacierairport.com), is serviced by Northwest, Delta, Big Sky, and Horizon. Avis, Budget, Hertz, and National have counters at the airport. The airports in Missoula and Great Falls are within a relatively easy drive of Glacier as well. Toll-free reservations numbers for airlines and car-rental companies appear in the appendix (p. 660).
By Rail. Amtrak's Empire Builder (☎ 800/872-7245; www.amtrak.com), a Chicago-Seattle round-trip route, stops between May 1 and October 1 at East Glacier and year-round at West Glacier and Essex.
INFORMATION
Contact the Superintendent, Glacier National Park, West Glacier, MT 59936 (☎ 406/888-7800; fax 406/888-7808; www.nps.gov/glac). A vast array of
publications is available from the Glacier Natural History Association, P.O. Box 310, West Glacier, MT 59936 (☎ 406/888-5756; fax 406/888-5271; www.glacierassociation.org).
VISITOR CENTERS
For up-to-date information on park activities, check in at visitor centers at Apgar, Logan Pass, and St. Mary; Travel Alberta staffs a center at West Glacier. St. Mary is open from mid-May through
mid-October; Logan Pass, from mid-June through late September; and Apgar, from May through October (and weekends during the winter). Park information is also