Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [179]
Like Lipan Point, the next stop, Navajo Point, offers fine views of the Grand Canyon Supergroup, a formation of igneous and sedimentary rocks that have eroded altogether in many other parts of the canyon. The long, thin streaks of maroon, gray, and black, which tilt at an angle of about 20 degrees, are layers of this formation.
The last stop on the Desert View Drive is Desert View, where you'll find the Watchtower, a 70-foot-high historic stone building that was modeled after towers found at ancient pueblos such as Mesa Verde and Hovenweep. Atop the Watchtower is an enclosed observation deck, which at 7,522 feet is the highest point on the South Rim. The rim at Desert View offers spectacular views of the northeast end of the canyon.
If you take the Desert View Drive shuttle, be aware that the buses stop only at Mather, Yavapai, and Yaki points.
Highlights: Spectacular views of both the central and northeastern canyon.
Drawbacks: Sometimes closes temporarily in winter because of snow.
North Rim: Cape Royal Drive
From the Grand Canyon Lodge on the North Rim, it's best to go the length of the scenic drive 23 miles directly to Cape Royal, on the Walhalla Plateau, then make your stops on the way back to the lodge. That way, you can do the short hikes near Cape Royal while your legs are fresh, and stop at the picnic areas, closer to the lodge, on your way back. Allow a half day to a day for this drive.
Start your driving tour at Cape Royal, where a gentle, paved .3-mile (each way) trail passes a natural bridge, Angel's Window, carved into a rock peninsula along the rim. The trail ends at the tip of Cape Royal, with views of the looming butte known as Wotan's Throne.
Your next stop may be at the Cliff Springs Trail, a .5-mile walk that ends at a small spring (see "Day Hikes," below).
From the next stop, Walhalla Overlook, you can follow with your eyes the tan line of Unkar Creek as it snakes down toward Unkar Delta. The soil and abundant water at the delta made for excellent farming for the ancestral Puebloan people, who occupied the canyon through about A.D. 1175. Many of these people migrated seasonally to dwellings such as the two small pueblos across the street from this overlook.
The next stop, Roosevelt Point, is one of the best places to see the confluence of the gorge of the Little Colorado River with the Grand Canyon. They meet at nearly a right angle, unusual in that most tributaries enter at close to the same direction as the larger rivers.
By starting your driving tour of the Walhalla Plateau early in the day, you can reach the next stop, Vista Encantada, in time for a late picnic on one of several tables with canyon views.
From there you can finish your driving tour by taking the 3-mile spur from the Cape Royal Road to Point Imperial, at 8,803 feet the highest point on the North Rim. It's also the best place on either rim to view the northeastern end of the park.
Highlights: Sparse crowds and lovely views of the eastern canyon.
Drawbacks: The Colorado River is not visible as often on this drive as on the South Rim drives. Also, there's no shuttle on the north rim, so you must do all the driving yourself.
Organized Tours & Ranger Programs
The park offers a host of free ranger programs; schedule changes seasonally. A typical schedule includes guided hikes and walks, kids' programs, and discussions of geology, native species, and natural and cultural history. Evening programs are scheduled nightly and run year-round on the South Rim (in winter, the North Rim is closed). For an up-to-date schedule, consult the park newspaper, The Guide.
Guided Hikes & Trips. The nonprofit Grand Canyon Field Institute, P.O. Box 399, Grand Canyon, AZ 86023 (☎ 928/638-2485; www.grandcanyon. org/fieldinstitute), schedules dozens of backpacking trips and outings lasting 1 to 9 days. Some explore broad subjects such as ecology; others