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Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [180]

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hone narrow skills such as orienteering or drawing. An expert on the topics covered guides each excursion. Because the courses vary greatly, the Field Institute assigns a difficulty level to each and tries to help participants find ones suited to their skill levels and interests.

Bus Tours. Of the many private companies that offer bus tours, Fred Harvey has the most extensive schedule. Among the choices are the Desert View Drive (East Rim) and Hermits Rest tours ($29 and $17, respectively, for adults; under 16 free), sunset tours to Hopi or Mojave Point ($13), sunrise tours ($13) to one of several rim stops, and all-day outings ($35) that combine two of the shorter tours. Unlike the drivers on the free shuttles, Fred Harvey drivers narrate the tours. Don't believe everything they say. Though they mean well and offer some valuable information, they were not hired for their command of natural science and history. (Just be glad you don't have distracted professors driving the bus.) For advance

reservations, call ☎ 888/297-2757. Once at the canyon, visit the transportation desks at Yavapai, Maswik, or Bright Angel lodges, or call ☎ 928/638-2631, ext. 6015.

Open Road Tours (☎ 800/766-7117; www.openroadtours.com) offers 1-day guided canyon tours that depart from Flagstaff at 9:30am and return by 5:30pm. The cost is $79 for adults, $40 for children under 12.

Historic & Man-Made Attractions


Most of the historic buildings on the South Rim cluster in Grand Canyon Village, a National Historic District. Hermits Rest, on Hermit Road, and the Watchtower, on the Desert View Drive, are also of historical significance (see "Exploring the Park by Car," above).

More than a half dozen of these historic buildings were designed by Mary Colter, a Minneapolis schoolteacher who in 1902 began decorating the shops that sold American Indian art along the Santa Fe Railroad line. Both a decorator and a self-trained architect, Colter designed these Grand Canyon landmarks: Hopi House (1905), The Lookout (1914), Hermits Rest (1914), Phantom Ranch (1922), Watchtower (1932), and Bright Angel Lodge (1935). Colter's work drew heavily on the architectural styles of Native Americans and Spanish settlers in the Southwest. Another historic building, the El Tovar Hotel (1905), was designed by Charles Whittlesey in a style reminiscent of a northern European hunting lodge.

Grand Canyon Lodge (1928), on the North Rim, is included on the National Register of Historic Places.

Day Hikes


There's no better way to enjoy the canyon than by walking down into it, watching the vegetation and rock layers change as you descend. The experience is far more rewarding than merely looking down from the rims.

Unfortunately, hiking below the rims can be dangerous, especially at midday during summer. Changes in temperature and elevation can make hiking difficult even in ideal conditions. The jarring descent can strain your knees; the climb back out will test your lungs and heart. If it's hot out or you aren't up to climbing, consider walking on one of the rim trails or on the new greenway being constructed on the South Rim. If nothing else, this will help you move away from the crowds at the overlooks. The rim trails are especially peaceful in the forests on the North Rim.

First-time hikers in the canyon should consider one of the corridor trails: North Kaibab, South Kaibab, and Bright Angel. Park rangers regularly patrol the trails, which are well maintained and easy to follow. Each has at least one emergency phone and pit toilet. Drinking water is available at several sources along both the Bright Angel and North Kaibab trails, but not on South Kaibab.

Wherever you hike, carry plenty of water and food, and check with the rangers about the availability of additional water along the trail. Eat and drink regularly. Wear sunscreen, sunglasses, and protective clothing. If you hike into the canyon, allow yourself twice as much time for the trip out as for the descent, and remember that the mileage indicated represents, in large part,

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