Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [186]
Trips to Phantom Ranch can fill up months in advance, so make reservations early. Starting on the first of each month, you can make reservations for the next 13 months. For advance reservations, call ☎ 888/297-2757. For possible openings the next day, call the Bright Angel Transportation Desk (☎ 928/638-2631, ext. 6015).
On the North Rim, mule rides are through a small, family-run outfit, Canyon Trail Rides (☎ 928/638-9875, or 435/679-8665 off season; www.canyonrides.com). The company offers two types of rim rides and two canyon rides, none of which go to Phantom Ranch. Prices range from $30 to $105 (credit cards not accepted). Riders must be at least 12 to go on the all-day ride. No one over 200 pounds is allowed on the canyon rides; for the rim rides, the limit is 220 pounds. All riders must speak English.
The mule rides on the North Rim tend to fill up later than those on the South Rim. To sign up, visit the Canyon Trail Rides desk (open daily 7am–6pm) at Grand Canyon Lodge, or call ahead.
Horseback Riding. For horseback riding near the South Rim, go to Apache Stables (☎ 928/638-2891; www.apache stables.com), which operates from April through October behind the now-closed Moqui Lodge, just outside the park's south entrance. This is a great, albeit expensive, family activity. Children as young as 8 are allowed on the 1-hour trail rides, which, like the 2-hour ones, loop through the Kaibab National Forest near the stables. Apache Stables also offers a 4-hour ride east through the forest to a view point at the East Rim. You must be 10 or over to go on the 2-hour ride, 14 to go on the 4-hour ride. Weight limits are 230 pounds, 220 pounds, and 200 pounds for the 1-, 2-, and 4-hour rides, respectively. Prices range from $31 to $96.
On the North Rim, Canyon Trail Rides (☎ 435/679-8665, or 435/679-8665 off season; www.canyonrides.com) offers horseback rides from 8am to 5pm Monday to Saturday from May 15 through September 15. A shuttle bus to the trailhead departs from the Grand Canyon Lodge. Prices run $30 to $105.
Condor Viewing. In recent years, many Grand Canyon visitors have spotted the largest land bird in North America. Of the 124 California condors in the wild, 55 now live in the Grand Canyon area. Members of the vulture family, California condors will cruise well over 100 miles a day, at speeds approaching 50 mph. When mature, condors are grayish-black except on their heads, which are orange and featherless. Under each wing, a triangular white patch will be visible.
Because condors have poor olfactory senses, they sometimes follow turkey vultures and other raptors to carrion. Other than size, the easiest way to tell the species apart is the way they soar: Vultures hold their wings in a V; condors keep theirs in a plane. Unless the condors change their habits, they will probably reappear above the South Rim in the years to come.
North of the canyon, you might spot a condor by driving 14 miles east of Jacob Lake on Highway 89A to House Rock Valley Road (the first road to your left after you leave the National Forest). Turn left (north) and go 2 miles to a small ramada. Scientists leave food for the youngest birds on cliffs above the ramada. If the condors are in the area, you'll probably meet workers who are tracking them. They carry a spotting scope and binoculars and will help you sight the birds.
Wherever you spot them, please don't approach, feed, or otherwise disturb the condors. If you see one who appears to be hurt or sick, notify the Peregrine Fund Condor Project (☎ 928/355-2270). Be prepared to identify the time and location of the sighting and, if possible, the bird's wing-tag number.
Camping
INSIDE THE PARK
You can make reservations for campsites in the Mather and North Rim campgrounds by calling ☎ 800/365-2267 (301/722-1257 from outside the U.S.) or visiting http://reservations.nps.gov.
Inside the