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park on the South Rim, 26 miles east of Grand Canyon Village on Ariz. 64, you'll find Desert View Campground (no phone). At dusk, the yips of coyotes drift over this campground in pinyon-juniper woodland at the eastern edge of the park. Elevated, cool, and breezy, the peaceful surroundings offer no clue that the bustling Desert View Overlook is within walking distance. The floor of the woodland makes for smooth tent sites, the most secluded being on the outside of the loop drive. The only drawback: The nearest showers are 28 miles away at Camper Services. During high season, this first-come, first-served campground usually fills up by noon.

Near Grand Canyon Village on the South Rim is Mather Campground (☎ 800/365-2267 or 928/638-7851). Despite having 319 sites in a relatively small area, this is a pleasant place. Pinyon and juniper trees shade the sites, spaced just far enough apart to afford some privacy. The Aspen and Maple loops are the roomiest. Also, don't stay too near the showers, in the Camper Services building next to the campground—you'll have hundreds of campers tramping past your site.

For RV drivers on the South Rim, Trailer Village in Grand Canyon Village (P.O. Box 699), Grand Canyon, AZ 86023 (☎ 888/297-2757 for advance reservations, or 928/638-2631, for same-day reservations and campground questions), offers full hookups. The neighbors are close, the showers far (half a mile) away, and the vegetation sparse. However, a few sites at the end of the numbered drives have grass, shade trees, and one neighbor-free side. You can catch a shuttle bus at a stop near the campground.

Inside the park on the North Rim, the North Rim Campground (☎ 800/ 365-2267 for advance reservations) is 44 miles south of Jacob Lake on Ariz. 67. Shaded by old-growth ponderosa pines and situated alongside Transept Canyon (part of Grand Canyon), this is a delightful place to spend a few days. The 1.5-mile Transept Trail links the campground to Grand Canyon Lodge, and the North Rim General Store is within walking distance. The most spectacular sites are the rim sites, which open onto the canyon. These cost an extra $5 but are worth it. Showers ($1.25/5 min.) are within walking distance.

With only 87 sites, the North Rim Campground fills up for much of the summer. If you show up without a reservation only to find the SORRY, CAMPGROUND FULL sign on the entry booth, don't be afraid to ask if there have been any cancellations—you might just end up with a campsite. The best time to ask about openings is 8am, when sites made available by the previous night's cancellations go up for sale. The campground is open May 15 to October 15, with a limited number of sites remaining open until the first snowfall.

NEAR THE PARK: SOUTH RIM

Just outside the park is Grand Canyon Camper Village in Tusayan, 1 mile south of the park entrance on Ariz. 64 (P.O. Box 490, Grand Canyon, AZ 86023-0490; ☎ 928/638-2887). This campground's advantage is its location, within easy walking distance of Tusayan's stores and restaurants on one side and of Kaibab National Forest on the other. Its disadvantages are its relatively narrow (average width: 27 ft.) campsites and the noise from the nearby Grand Canyon National Park Airport. The restrooms are clean, and showers cost 75¢ for 6 minutes. There's also a playground and a gravel basketball court.

Ten X Campground (☎ 928/638-2443) is 2 miles south of Tusayan on Ariz. 64. Large, wooded campsites make this the most peaceful campground within 20 miles of the South Rim. With plenty of distance between you and your neighbors, you'll find it a great place to linger over a fire. All sites have fire pits and grills, and the campground host sells wood. Later, you'll find the soft, needle-covered floor perfect for sleeping. This campground, which is first-come, first-served, does sell out. If you're driving from Flagstaff or Williams, consider snagging a site before going to the canyon for the day. Open May to September.

NEAR THE PARK: NORTH RIM

Kaibab Camper Village is a half-mile west of