Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [196]
An even better surprise is the surroundings: 500 largely wooded acres, owned by the hotel, providing access to Flagstaff's urban trail system and, farther out, the Arizona Trail. From Thanksgiving through January, a million holiday lights sparkle on the trees. The property has three restaurants (deli, coffee shop, and fine dining), a lounge, a large outdoor pool, a business center, coin-op laundry facilities, an exercise room, sand volleyball courts, horseshoe pits, a playground, and a 2-mile jogging trail. And if, by chance, you need 60 gallons of diesel, a trucker's hat, or coffee in an imposing Styrofoam cup, you won't have to go far. It's almost weird.
KANAB, UTAH
Kanab, about 78 miles northwest of the park, has two moderate to expensive chain hotels: Holiday Inn Express, 815 E. Hwy. 89 (☎ 435/644-8888); and Best Western Red Hills, 125 W. Center St. (☎ 800/830-2675 or 435/644-2675).
Also in town are a number of inexpensive to moderately priced hotels. Consider Shilo Inn Kanab, 296 W. 100 N. (☎ 435/644-2562); Clarion Collection Victorian Charm Inn, 190 N. Hwy 89 (☎ 800/738-9643 [reservations only] or 435/644-8660); and Super 8 Motel, 70 S. 200 W. (☎ 435/644-5500). For a comfortable, inexpensive campground smack in downtown, try Hitch N' Post, 196 E. 300 S. (☎ 800/458-3516 [reservations] or 435/644-2142). In addition to tent spaces and RV hookups, there are three log cabins.
Parry Lodge
89 E. Center St., Kanab, UT 84741. ☎ 435/ 644-2601. Fax 801/644-2605. www.infowest.com/parry. 89 units. A/C TV TEL. May–Oct $51–$86 double; Nov–Apr $40–$60 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted; $5 fee.
Many of the older rooms, known as "movie units," in this 1929 colonial-style lodge display plaques bearing the names of stars who stayed in them while filming Westerns (Dean Martin, Gregory Peck, and Sammy Davis, Jr., among others). The movie units are smaller and closer to Center Street than the newer rooms, but they're far more charming. Most have tile bathroom floors and classic American furnishings, and they're shaded by trees. If you want a bathtub, you'll need to take a newer unit. From April through October, the room rate includes continental breakfast.
Viola's Garden Bed and Breakfast
250 N. 100 W., Kanab, UT 84741. ☎ and fax 435/644-5683. www.violas-garden.com. 5 rooms, all with private bathroom, 4 with shower only. A/C. $89–$135 double. Rates include gourmet breakfast. DISC, MC, V. Younger children not accepted.
In 1912, a sheep rancher named James Swapp built a home using a $640 kit from the Sears Roebuck catalog. All the components of the home, including precut beams, siding, roofing, and paint, were delivered by train from Chicago to Marysvale, Utah, then carried 200-odd miles on a buckboard wagon to Kanab. Today, Swapp's grand-daughter, Nileen Whitlock, and her husband, Von, operate a remarkably comfortable B&B in that home. Two guest rooms—the English Garden Room and the Rose Garden—are in the original home; the other three are in an addition. Von's heavenly breakfast fare might include crepes, omelets, or French toast stuffed with baked apples or cherries and cream cheese.
Where to Dine
INSIDE THE PARK
SOUTH RIM
Arizona Room
At Bright Angel Lodge. ☎ 928/638-2631. Reservations not accepted. Lunch $7.75–$12; dinner $11–$25. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–3pm and 4:30–10pm. Closed winter. STEAKS.
This is the first choice of locals for dinner and a less time-consuming option than eating at El Tovar. The restaurant dishes up the most consistently tasty meals on the South Rim. Entrees include hand-cut steaks, mustard and rosemary crusted prime rib, baby-back ribs with prickly-pear or spicy chipotle barbecue sauce, marinated chicken breast, and pan-seared salmon with melon salsa. To accompany your meal, you can choose from a variety of midpriced California wines or flavored margaritas. Arriving early for dinner isn't a bad idea because the wait for a table