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Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [213]

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and acclimated to the altitude (you'll climb 3,000 ft.). You'll cross glacial moraines and meadows quilted with flowers, and enter forests of fir and lodgepole and whitebark pine (a bear food—be alert!). Finally you clear the trees and come into an amphitheater of monstrous rock walls topped by Disappointment Peak, with the Grand and Teewinot in view. Surprise Lake and Amphitheater Lake sit in this dramatic setting, with a few gnarled trees struggling to survive on the slopes.

Cascade Canyon Trail

4.5 miles one-way. Moderate to strenuous. Access: Inspiration Point.

For those who have time to go a little farther, Cascade Canyon Trail is the most popular in the park. You can begin the hike from South Jenny Lake, but you can also shave 2 miles off each way by riding the boat across the lake and beginning your hike at the dock (see "Jenny Lake & the South End of the Park," earlier in this chapter). At this point, you're only a steep 1-mile hike from Inspiration Point (see "Hidden Falls & Inspiration Point Trail," below), which is as far as many visitors go. From here, you make a brief steep climb to the glacially rounded canyon, where the trail levels out and you're in a wonderland of wildflowers, waterfowl, and busy pikas. On a nice day, the warblers will be singing and you may see moose and bear. If you want to go farther once you reach forks of North and South Cascade Canyon, follow either the South Fork to Hurricane Pass, or the North Fork to Lake Solitude. These are overnight trips.

A less taxing alternative to the Cascade Canyon trip mentioned above is a detour to Moose Ponds, which begins on the Inspiration Point trail. The ponds, located 2 miles from either the west or east boat dock, are near the south end of the lake and are alive with birds. The area near the base of Teewinot Mountain, which towers over the area, is populated with elk, mule deer, black bears, and moose. The trail is flat (at lake level), short, and easy to negotiate in 1 to 1½ hours. The best times to venture forth are in early morning and evening.

Hidden Falls & Inspiration Point Trail

1.8–5.8 miles RT. Moderate. Access: East or west shore boat dock.

Many people cross Jenny Lake, either by boat or on foot around the south end, and then make the short, forest-shaded uphill slog to Hidden Falls (less than 1 mile of hiking if you take the boat; 5 miles round-trip if you walk around), which tumbles down a broad cascade. Some think that's enough and don't go another steep half-mile to Inspiration Point. Up there you get a great view of Jenny Lake below, and you can see the glacial moraine that formed it. If you're going only to these two overlooks, we recommend a relaxed and easy hike around the south end of the lake.

Jenny Lake Loop Trail

7 miles. Easy to moderate. Access: Trailhead at east shore boat dock.

Another lake to circumnavigate, following the shore. You can cut the trip in half by taking the Jenny Lake boat shuttle from the east shore boat dock to the west shore boat dock. The lake occupies a pastoral setting at the foot of the mountain range, providing excellent views throughout the summer. Warning: This is one of the most popular spots in the park; to avoid crowds, travel early or late in the day. The trails to Hidden Falls, Inspiration Point, and the Moose Ponds branch off this trail on the southwest shore of the lake. The trails to String and Leigh lakes branch off this trail on the northern shore of Jenny Lake.

Exploring the Backcountry


Grand Teton may seem small compared with Yellowstone, but it has more than 250 miles of backcountry trails that provide good opportunities for solitude and adventure. You must have a permit from the Park Service to sleep in the backcountry—the permits are free, but reservations are not. The permit is valid only on the dates for which it is issued. There are two methods of securing permits: They may be picked up at park visitor centers the day before you start your trip, or you can make a reservation for a permit in advance of your arrival, for a

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