Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [214]
Remember that this region has a short summer and virtually no spring. Although the lower-elevation areas of the park are open in May, some of the high-country trails may not be clear of snow or high water before late June or early July. Look in the "Backcountry Camping" brochure available at the visitor center for approximate dates when specific campsites will be habitable.
Perhaps the most popular backcountry trail in Grand Teton is the 19.2-mile Cascade Canyon Loop, which starts on the west side of Jenny Lake, winds northwest 7.2 miles on the Cascade Canyon Trail to Lake Solitude and the Paintbrush Divide, then returns on the 10.3-mile-long Paintbrush Trail past Holly Lake. It is one of the most rigorous hikes in either Grand Teton or Yellowstone because of gains in elevation—more than 2,600 feet—rocky trails, and switchbacks through loose rock and gravel that can become slippery, especially in years when snow remains until the middle of summer on the north-facing side of Paintbrush Divide.
Rangers recommend the hike for several reasons, the most noteworthy of which is unsurpassed scenery. Moose and black bears inhabit this part of the park, so hikers are cautioned to be diligent about making noise. There's also the possibility of sighting harlequin ducks, which nest near the trail in Cascade Creek. You'll see many types of wildflowers, large stands of whitebark pine trees, and an almost unimaginable array of bird life.
Though it adds 5.1 miles to the trip (one-way), a detour west from the Cascade Canyon Trail to Hurricane Pass will reward you with a view from the foot of Schoolroom Glacier. If you're after an extended trip, head west into the Jedediah Smith Wilderness on a trail that eventually crosses into Idaho. This trail doesn't stop anytime soon—you can continue trekking all the way to Alaska.
If you're unable to complete the hike in 1 day, you can trek 7.2 miles on the Cascade Canyon Trail to Solitude Lake and return on the same trail. If you can afford a 2-day trip, camping zones are 6 miles west of the trailhead on the Cascade Canyon Trail and 8.7 miles northwest on the Paintbrush Canyon Trail at Holly Lake. Be sure to get a reservation.
Perhaps the quickest way to get up high in these mountains for a backcountry foray is to hitch a ride up Rendezvous Mountain on the Jackson Hole Ski Resort Tram. This puts you at 10,450 feet in Bridger-Teton National Forest, just south of the park, and ready to embark north toward the park's Middle Fork Cutoff. From here you can head down into Granite Canyon to Phelps Lake, or go north along the Teton Crest Trail to Fox Creek Pass (over 8 difficult miles from the tram) and Death Canyon and beyond. If you are hardy enough to make it to Death Canyon Shelf, a wildflower-strewn limestone ledge that runs above Death Canyon toward Alaska Basin, you'll have an extraordinary high-altitude view of the west side of the Tetons' biggest peaks. If you are on an extended backcountry trip, you can continue north to Hurricane Pass, where you can come back down to the valley floor by way of Cascade Canyon.
This kind of backcountry trip is really an expedition, and it requires skill and experience. Go over your plans with park rangers, who can help you evaluate your ability to take on the challenge.
Other Summer Sports & Activities
Biking. Bikes are banned from hiking trails in the park. On the paved roads below, the problem is safety—huge RVs careen about, and some roads have only narrow shoulders. Teton Park Road has been widened somewhat, but traffic is heavy here; road bikers should try Antelope Flats, beginning at a trailhead 1 mile north of Moose Junction and going east. Sometimes called Mormon Row, this paved route crosses the flats below the Gros Ventre Mountains, past old ranch homesteads and the small town of Kelly. It connects to the unpaved Shadow Mountain