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Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [327]

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Beach to the lighthouse area. Trails leaving from Bear Valley tend to be more crowded on weekends than others. Try the Five Brooks or Palomarin trailheads to avoid hordes of backcountry tourists. As a rule, a weekday visitor to Point Reyes will encounter far fewer people than the weekender.

Just the Facts


GETTING THERE & GATEWAYS

Point Reyes is only 30 miles northwest of San Francisco, but it takes at least 90 minutes to reach by car. (It's all the small towns, not the topography, that slow you down.) The easiest route is Sir Francis Drake Boulevard from U.S. 101 south of San Rafael; it takes its time getting to Point Reyes but does so without any detours. For a much longer but more scenic route, take the Stinson Beach/Highway 1 exit off U.S. 101 just south of Sausalito and follow Highway 1 north.

The Nearest Airport. San Francisco International Airport (☎ 650/821-8211; www.sfoairport.com), 14 miles south of downtown San Francisco on U.S. 101, is served by all major airlines and car-rental companies. Phone numbers appear in the appendix (p. 660–661).

INFORMATION

Contact Point Reyes National Seashore, Point Reyes Station, CA 94956-9799 (☎ 415/464-5100; www.nps.gov/pore). Naturalist Jules G. Evens's Natural History of the Point Reyes Peninsula (Point Reyes National Seashore Association, 1993) is a comprehensive and sometimes anecdotal overview of Point Reyes's natural history.

VISITOR CENTERS

As soon as you arrive at Point Reyes, stop at the Bear Valley Visitor Center on Bear Valley Road (look for the small sign posted just north of Olema on Hwy. 1). Pick up a free trail map, talk with the rangers about your plans, and check out the natural history and cultural displays. It's open daily year-round (closed Dec 25).

The Ken Patrick Visitor Center at Drakes Beach houses a 250-gallon saltwater aquarium and a 16-foot minke whale skeleton, among other exhibits. It's open only weekends and holidays (except Dec 25) from 10am to 5pm. The Lighthouse Visitor Center, at the westernmost point of the Point Reyes Peninsula, offers information on the lighthouse and life-saving services performed over the 125 years of its use, as well as natural history exhibits on whales, seals, and wildflowers. It's open Thursday through Monday from 10am to 5pm (closed Dec 25).

FEES

Entrance to the park is free. Hike-in camping is $15 per night (and more for groups of 7–25).

SPECIAL REGULATIONS & WARNINGS

Dogs and other pets are not permitted on trails, in campgrounds, or on beaches that are seal habitats or bird nesting areas. On other beaches they must be leashed. Check at park visitor centers before taking your dog to a beach, to avoid seasonal closures.

Wood fires are prohibited in campgrounds. Use only charcoal, gas stoves, or canned heat. Driftwood fires are permitted only on sandy beaches below the high-tide line; you must obtain a free permit at a visitor center.

Check the tide tables before walking on the beaches. Rising water can trap you against a cliff with no possibility of escape.

For your safety, sleeping on the beach is prohibited; it can be really dangerous. High tide frequently comes to the base of the cliffs and can trap the unwary.

Do not climb cliffs—they can crumble easily. Your foothold may vanish, leaving you in thin air. Walking or sitting below cliffs is also dangerous due to falling rock.

In wooded areas, keep an eye out for poison oak's waxy three-leaf clusters. Also be sure to check for ticks—the Lyme disease–carrying black-legged tick is common here.

The pounding surf and rip currents are treacherous, especially at McClures Beach and Point Reyes beaches, north and south. Stay away from the water.

Don't disturb any abandoned baby seals or sea lions you may encounter on the beach. The mother may be preoccupied with finding lunch, and she won't come back until you leave. In fact, you could be fined up to $10,000 for your good intentions. However, if a pup looks injured or appears to be in danger, call the North Coast Marine Mammal Center (☎ 707/ 465-MAML [6265]).

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