Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [328]
SEASONS & CLIMATE
Weather at Point Reyes is fickle. The seasons here generally reverse expectations: Summer tends to be cold and foggy until the afternoon (the point itself is the foggiest place on the West Coast), while winter is clear and, if not exactly warm, often more tolerable. But these are generalizations at best—winter storms can rage for weeks, and sometimes the summer fog miraculously holds off for days. Spring and fall usually see the best weather (that is, little fog, warm temperatures).
To make matters more frustrating, the clearing of fog often signals the onset of strong winds. So, if you are planning to explore the park on foot, prepare yourself for cool weather, dampness, and wind (lots of wind—gusts have reached up to 133 mph, the highest wind speed recorded on the Pacific Coast). The best plan is to take advantage of variations in local weather by being flexible with your itinerary: Save indoor sightseeing for rainy or foggy days, and hit the beach or go hiking when the sun comes out.
SEASONAL EVENTS
Point Reyes National Seashore plays host to an annual Native American Celebration on the third Saturday of July. American Indian basket-makers, flintknappers, singers, and dancers convene at Point Reyes for an annual public celebration at Kule Loklo, an authentic reconstruction of a village of the indigenous Coast Miwok Indian tribe. The Miwok Archaeological Preserve of Marin offers classes in traditional California Indian skills in the spring and fall. Call ☎ 415/479-3281 or browse www.mapom.org for information.
If You Have Only 1 Day
First, stop at the Bear Valley Visitor Center and pick up the free Point Reyes map, which lists all the trails and roads open to cars, bikes, horses, and hikers. While you're here, spend some time at the nearby Kule Loklo, an authentic reconstruction of a village of the indigenous Coast Miwok Indian tribe, and at Morgan Horse Ranch, a good place to see park patrol horses. Afterward, take a short stroll on the Earthquake Trail, an informative .5-mile walk along the San Andreas Fault, and, time permitting, the .7-mile self-guided Woodpecker Nature Trail.
By far the most popular, and crowded, attraction at Point Reyes National Seashore is the venerable Point Reyes Lighthouse, at the westernmost tip of Point Reyes. The drive alone is worth the trip—a 45-minute, 20-mile scenic excursion on the Sir Francis Drake Highway through rolling, windswept meadows and working dairy ranches (watch out for cows on the road). When the fog burns off, the lighthouse and the headlands provide a fantastic lookout point for spying common murres, basking sea lions, and gray whales as they migrate along the coast from December through March. The road closes at Drakes Beach on weekends from January through mid-April, when buses take visitors from the Ken Patrick Visitor Center to the lighthouse and back from 9am to 5:15 pm. Adult tickets are $5; children under 17 ride free.
If you still have some time, the Point Reyes Bird Observatory —an ornithological research organization at the southeast end of the park—is a must for bird-watchers.
Exploring the Park by Car
The main scenic road in the park is the Sir Francis Drake Highway (described above in "If You Have Only 1 Day"). An excellent turnoff on this road is Mount Vision Road, which winds its way up to the Mount Vision Overlook for a panoramic view of the entire peninsula.
There are two other major roads within the park. Pierce Point Road forks north from the Sir Francis Drake Highway toward Tomales Point, passing Tomales Bay State Park (a popular picnicking area that offers relatively warm and safe waters) and Abbotts Lagoon (a bird-watchers' paradise) before ending at McClures Beach. The other major road is Limantour Road, which crosses the park before ending at Limantour Beach, a popular spot for beachcombing, picnicking, and bird-watching at nearby Estero de Limantour. Both roads are primarily used to reach trailheads and beaches, but they can double as scenic alternatives to touring the Sir