Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [341]
The only lodging in the park, this 1908 settler's ranch was remodeled in 1987 to accommodate 30 guests dormitory-style (bunks and shared bathrooms). The location—a mere 100 yards from the beach, surrounded by hiking trails leading along the Redwood Coast—more than makes up for the minimal privacy. Two private rooms that accommodate two are available with advance reservations. The nightly rate includes showers and use of a common room, a redwood deck, a kitchen, a dining room, a pellet stove, and outdoor lockers. Reservations (with a credit card) are strongly recommended from March to October.
NEAR THE PARK
Crescent Beach Motel
1455 U.S. 101 S. (2 miles south of downtown), Crescent City, CA 95531. ☎ 707/464-5436. 27 units. TV. Summer $94–$110 double; winter $67–$80 double. AE, DISC, MC, V.
Crescent City has the dubious distinction of being the only city along the
coast without a fancy, full-service hotel. It does, however, have an armada of inexpensive roadside motels, the best of which is the Crescent Beach. The single-story structure near the highway is the only local motel set directly on the beach. The well-maintained rooms are simple and functional; most have queen-size beds. Four units face the highway; try to get one of the others, all of which have sliding glass doors opening onto decks and a small lawn area overlooking the bay. One of the city's most popular restaurants, the Beachcomber (see "Where to Dine," below), is next door.
Curly Redwood Lodge
701 U.S. 101 S., Crescent City, CA 95531. ☎ 707/464-2137. Fax 707/464-1655. www.curlyredwoodlodge.com. 36 units. TV TEL. Summer $62–$67 double; winter $45–$48 double. AE, DC, MC, V.
This is a blast from the past, the kind of place where you might have stayed as a kid during one of those cross-country vacations in the family station wagon. It was built in 1957 on grasslands across from the town's harbor, and completely trimmed with rare curly-grained lumber from a single ancient redwood. Although they're not full of the latest high-tech gadgets, the guest rooms are among the largest and most soundproof in town, and certainly the most evocative of a bygone, more innocent age. In winter, about a third of the rooms (the ones upstairs) are locked and sealed. Overall, the retro aura is more akin to Oregon than anything you might imagine in 21st-century California.
Historic Requa Inn
451 Requa Rd., Klamath, CA 95548. ☎ 707/ 482-1425. www.requainn.com. 12 units. $85–$135 double; lower rates in winter. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. From U.S. 101, take Requa Rd. 2½ miles north of Klamath River Bridge.
Established in 1914, this two-story charmer on the banks of the lower Klamath River offers guest rooms modestly decorated with antique furnishings. Bathrooms have either showers or claw-foot tubs. Six units offer views of the lower Klamath River. The inn's main attraction is the cozy parlor downstairs, where guests bury themselves in the plump armchairs to read beside the wood-burning pellet stove or just relax and watch the river run. There are plenty of enticements just outside, including river access, numerous hiking trails in nearby Redwood National Park, and, of course, fishing. Dinner (open to the public) is served Monday through Saturday.
Where to Dine
Fresh seafood is plentiful on the Redwood Coast, especially in Crescent City, and most restaurants are very casual. Microbrewery fans will want to check out the Surfside Grill & Brewery, 400 Front St., Crescent City (☎ 707/464-7962), which serves a terrific dark amber (aka "Da Kine') and a menu of seafood, barbecued ribs, and pub grub. The place is open for lunch and dinner daily, with main courses ranging from $5 to $12 at lunch and $5 to $18 at dinner.
Beachcomber
1400 U.S. 101 S., Crescent City. ☎ 707/464-2205. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8–$20. MC, V. Thurs–Tues 5–9pm. SEAFOOD.
The decor is as predictably nautical as its name implies: rough-cut planking and a scattering of artfully arranged driftwood,