Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [342]
Circle J Cafe and Pub
579 U.S. 101 South, Crescent City. ☎ 707/ 465-5884. Main courses $4–$11 breakfast; $6–$12 lunch; $8–$18 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–9pm, Sat 1–9pm. SANDWICHES/PIZZA.
Our favorite Crescent City eatery from the second it opened in 2003, Circle J's is in an old two-story building that once housed a rowdy loggers' bar called the Circle H. (The J is for proprietor Stephanie Jones.) With Buddhist flags and statues, a velvet Last Supper, and coffee-table books at the booths, the place has an endearingly eclectic style, but the food is the real attraction. We can't stop thinking about the mouthwatering pasta salads, loaded with garlic and Kalamata olives, and sandwiches, like spicy barbecue chicken, served with cheddar and red onion on grilled sourdough. The kitchen also offers creative pizzas and a number of excellent vegetarian options. Even Jones' cookies are superlative. The proverb painted above the counter reads, "To eat well is to commune with the gods," definitely rings true.
Harbor View Grotto Restaurant & Lounge
150 Starfish Way, Crescent City. ☎ 707/464-3815. Main courses $4.50–$13 lunch; $8–$27 dinner. MC, V. Daily 11:30am–10pm. SEAFOOD/STEAKS.
Located in Crescent City's harbor, this is the best-established non-chain restaurant in town, specializing in fresh seafood at market prices since 1961. This building, its home since 1995, features pleasant views of the ocean and harbor from both the dining room and lounge, and is capped with a miniature lighthouse inspired by Crescent City's Battery Point Lighthouse. The "light eaters" menu includes a cup of creamy white chowder (made fresh daily) or salad, a main course, and vegetables; hungrier diners can choose from three different cuts of prime rib or steaks with sautéed prawns. Menu items include a seasonal variety of fresh fish from local fishing fleets, such as Pacific snapper or salmon. Crab (in season) or shrimp Louis, as well as crabmeat and shrimp sandwiches, are perennial favorites.
Picnic & Camping Supplies
You can purchase sandwiches and other light fare at the Good Harvest Cafe, 700 Northcrest Dr., Crescent City (☎ 707/ 465-6028). It also serves a good hot breakfast, including vegetarian dishes.
Groceries are available in Crescent City at Safeway, 475 M St. (☎ 707/465-3353), and Ray's Food Place, 625 M St. (☎ 707/465-4045). Or you might try the Orick Market, 121175 Hwy. 101, Orick (☎ 707/488-3225).
Wal-Mart, 900 Washington St., Crescent City (☎ 707/464-1198), sells camping supplies and sporting goods.
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ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK
by Don & Barbara Laine
SNOW-COVERED PEAKS STAND WATCH OVER LUSH VALLEYS AND SHIMMERING alpine lakes, creating the perfect image of America's most dramatic and beautiful landscape: the majestic Rocky Mountains. Here, the pine- and fir-scented forests are deep, the air is crisp and pure, and the rugged mountain peaks reach up to grasp the deep-blue sky.
What makes Rocky Mountain National Park unique is not only its breathtaking scenery but also its variety. In relatively low areas, up to 9,000 feet, ponderosa pine and juniper cloak the sunny southern slopes, with Douglas fir on the cooler northern slopes. The thirstier blue spruce and lodgepole pine cling to the banks of streams, along with occasional groves of aspen. Elk and mule deer thrive. On higher slopes, forests of Engelmann spruce and subalpine fir dominate, interspersed with wide meadows vibrant with wildflowers in spring and summer. This is also home to