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Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [90]

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strategically located throughout the backcountry, are available to all visitors, regardless of their mode of transport. Just be sure to make your backcountry campsite reservations well in advance—up to a year ahead for the more popular areas. You can get reservation forms and detailed information by mail, over the phone, or from the park's website (see "Information," above).

OUTFITTERS BASED IN MOAB

Although this area offers plenty for the do-it-yourselfer, some 50 local outfitters offer excursions of all kinds, from lazy canoe rides to hair-raising jet-boat and four-wheel-drive adventures. The chart below lists some of the major companies that want to help you fully enjoy this beautiful country. All are located in Moab (zip code 84532). Advance reservations are often required, and it's best to check with several outfitters before you decide on one. In addition to asking about what you'll see and do and what it will cost, it doesn't hurt to make sure the company is insured and has the proper permits with various federal agencies. Also ask about the cancellation policy, just in case.

Boating, Canoeing & Rafting. After spending hours in the blazing sun looking at mile upon mile of huge red sandstone rock formations, it's easy to get the idea that Canyonlands National Park is a baking, dry, rock-hard desert. Well, it is. But both the Colorado and Green rivers run through the park, and one of the most exciting ways to see the park and surrounding country is from river level.

You can travel into the park in a canoe, kayak, large or small rubber raft (with or without motor), or speedy, solid jet boat. Do-it-yourselfers can rent kayaks or canoes for $30 to $35 for a half day and $35 to $45 for a full day, or rafts from $50 to $90 for a half day and $60 to $130 for a full day. Half-day guided river trips cost $32 to $40 per person; full-day trips are usually $40 to $60. Multiday rafting expeditions, which include meals and camping equipment, start at about $175 per person for 2 days. Jet-boat trips, which cover a lot more river, start at about $60 for a half-day trip, with full-day trips about $95. Children's rates are usually about 20% lower. Some companies also offer sunset or dinner trips. See the "Outfitter" chart below.

The Colorado and Green rivers meet in the park, and both are fairly calm before the confluence. But after they meet, the Colorado becomes serious white water; at this point you will most likely want to be on a guided raft trip.

One fantastic canoe trip is along the Green River. Canoeists usually start in or near the town of Green River (put in at Green River State Park or at Mineral Bottom, just downstream) and spend about 2 days to get to the Green's confluence with the Colorado, where they can arrange to be picked up by a local outfitter.

Public boat-launching ramps in the Moab area are opposite Lion's Park, near the intersection of U.S. 191 and Utah 128; at Take-Out Beach, along Utah 128 about 10 miles east of its intersection with U.S. 191; and at Hittle Bottom, also along Utah 128, about 24 miles east of its intersection with U.S. 191. The Colorado Basin River Forecast Center (☎ 801/539-1311 [recording]; www.cbrfc.noaa.gov) provides information on river flows and reservoir conditions statewide.

Four-Wheeling. Unlike most national parks, where all motor vehicles and mountain bikes must stay on paved roads, Canyonlands has miles of rough four-wheel-drive roads where mechanized transport is king. Keep in mind that we're talking serious four-wheeling here; most roads require high-clearance, short-wheelbase vehicles. Many of these roads also require the skill that comes only from experience, so it's usually a good idea to discuss your plans with rangers before putting your high-priced vehicle on the line. Four-wheelers must stay on designated 4WD roads, but here the term road can mean anything from a graded, well-marked two-lane gravel byway to a pile of loose rocks with a sign that says "that-a-way." Many of the park's Jeep roads are impassable during heavy rains and

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