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Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [91]

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for a day or two after.

Several local companies offer four-wheel-drive vehicle rentals. They include Farabee Jeep Rentals (☎ 435/ 259-7494; www.farabeejeeprentals.com) and Slickrock Jeep Rentals (☎ 435/ 259-5678; www.moab-utah.com/jeep/ jeep.html).

The best four-wheel-drive adventure in Canyonlands' Island in the Sky District is the White Rim Road, which runs some 100 winding miles and affords spectacular and ever-changing views, from broad panoramas of rock and canyon to close-ups of red and orange towers and buttes. A high-clearance 4WD is essential. Expect the journey to be slow, lasting 2 to 3 days, although with the appropriate vehicle it isn't really difficult. There are primitive campgrounds along the way. Reservations on this popular route should be made well in advance.

Four-wheeling on one of many exciting routes in the Needles District can be an end in itself or simply a means to get to some of the more interesting and remote hiking trails and camping spots. Four-wheelers will find one of their ultimate challenges on the Elephant Hill Jeep Road, which begins at a well-marked turnoff near Squaw Flat Campground. Although most of the 10-mile trail is only moderately difficult, the stretch over Elephant Hill near the beginning can be a nightmare, with steep, rough slickrock, drifting sand, loose rock, and treacherous ledges. Coming down the hill, one switchback requires you to back to the edge of a steep cliff before continuing ahead. This is also a favorite of mountain

bikers, although riders will have to walk bikes on some stretches over an abundance of sand and rocks. The route offers views of numerous rock formations, from striped needles to balanced rocks, plus steep cliffs and rock "stairs." Side trips can add another 30 miles. Allow 8 hours to 3 days.

For a spectacular view of the Colorado River, the Colorado River Overlook Road can't be beat. This 14-mile round-trip is popular with four-wheelers, backpackers, and mountain bikers. Considered among the park's easiest 4WD roads, the first part is very easy indeed, accessible by high-clearance two-wheel-drives, but the second half has a few rough and rocky sections that require four-wheel-drive. Starting at the Needles Visitor Center parking lot, the trail takes you past numerous panoramic vistas to a spectacular 360-degree view of the park and the Colorado River some 1,000 feet below.

Several companies in the area offer guided four-wheel-drive tours, with prices starting at about $80 per person.

Biking. Road bikes are of little use in Canyonlands, except for getting to and from trailheads, view points, visitor centers, and campgrounds in the Island in the Sky and Needles districts. Although bikes of any kind are prohibited on hiking trails and cross-country in the backcountry, they are permitted on designated two- and four-wheel-drive roads. Mountain bikers have many possibilities, although they will find themselves sharing dirt roads with motor vehicles and hikers. Some spots on the four-wheel-drive roads have deep sand that can turn into quicksand when wet—so you may find that mountain biking, while certainly a challenge, is not as much fun as you'd expect. It's wise to talk with rangers about conditions on specific roads before setting out.

Among popular rides are the Elephant Hill and Colorado River Overlook Jeep roads, both in the Needles District. The 100-mile White Rim Road, in the Island in the Sky District, also makes a great mountain-bike trip (allow at least 4 days), especially for bikers who can arrange for an accompanying 4WD vehicle to carry water, food, and camping gear. See "Four-Wheeling," above.

Cyclists can get information and rent or repair bikes at Slickrock Cycles, 427 N. Main St. (☎ 800/825-9791 or 435/ 259-1134; www.slickrockcycles.com). Bike rentals start at about $35 per day. Bike shuttle services are available from Acme Bike Shuttle (☎ 435/260-2534), Coyote Shuttle (☎ 435/259-8656; www.coyoteshuttle.com), and Roadrunner Shuttle (☎ 435/259-9402; www.road runnershuttle.com). Several local companies

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