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birds, a mounted buffalo head, an ancient piano, rusty firearms, fading prints, a beer-guzzling lion, and Santa Claus masks. The hofbrau-style buffet offers a cornucopia of rib-clinging a la carte dishes such as their signature buffalo stew (via a buffalo ranch in Wyoming), which resides under heat lamps among the stainless steel trays of whole turkeys and hams, sloppy joes, oxtails, corned beef, meatballs, mashed potatoes, and other classics. There’s also a slew of seating on two levels, almost 100 varieties of beer, and a most interesting clientele of almost exclusively pre-cardiac-arrest males (some of whom have been coming to the “Joynt” for more than 40 years). It’s all good stuff in a ’merican kind of way, the kind of place you take Grandpappy when he’s in town just to show him that San Francisco’s not entirely sissy.

1101 Geary Blvd. (at Van Ness Ave.). 415/775-4216. www.tommysjoynt.com. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $4–$7. No credit cards. Daily 10am–2am. Bus: 2, 3, 4, or 38.

MISSION DISTRICT

Expensive

Bar Agricole ★ AMERICAN Set back from the street in an otherwise industrial and warehouse-filled section of downtown, this hot new favorite amongst the denizens of SOMA has become the talk of design publications across the nation. A finalist in the prestigious James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant Design, it’s easy to see why the low-slung exterior, minimalist outdoor patio and sleek barnwood-paneled interior is so popular. This LEED-certified beauty dishes up food whose central ingredients are locally harvested from organic and biodynamic farms across the northern Bay Area. The distilled spirits and the concoctions that spring from them are from small-batch craftsmen and trend towards the tart. The menu shifts weekly, is light-weight, packed with sensual delight and such fascinating ingredients like cardoons (a thistle-like flowing plant), puntarelle (a variety of chicory), cow tongue, or ciccioli (cured pig fat).

335 11th St. (at Harrison St.). 415/355-9400. www.baragricole.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $13–$28. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Wed 6–10pm; Thurs–Sat 6–11pm; Sun brunch 11am–2pm. Bus: 6, 47, 49, 71, or 90. Streetcar: F, J, KT, L, M, N, S.

Moderate

Bar Bambino ★★ ITALIAN A welcome jewel in the gritty heart of the Mission, Christopher Losa’s baby shows a flair for well-made classic Italian fare, elegant yet wholly accessible. Large parties can be accommodated at group tables on the year-round outdoor patio. Couples on a date or friends meeting friends just for a glass of wine from the expansive list will find comfortable seats at the bar or small tables inside as well. Everyone will enjoy handmade pastas, braised meats, and a wonderful, ever-changing selection of salumis, cheeses, and bruschette. The banana donuts with warm Nutella sauce are a perfect ending to a leisurely meal at this unfussy spot. Daily lunch specials go for just $14.

2931 16th St. (btw. Capp St. and Van Ness Ave.). 415/701-8466. www.barbambino.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $14–$28. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Thurs 11am–11pm; Fri–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 5–10pm. Closed Mon. Bus: 33. BART: 16th St./Mission.

Bar Tartine ★★ AMERICAN You’ve probably passed Bar Tartine a dozen times and not even noticed it’s there—it flies under the radar like that. But once you discover it, you won’t forget it anytime soon. Sister to the ever-popular Tartine Bakery down the street, which supplies the delicious homemade bread, Bar Tartine opened in 2005 and quickly became a beloved Mission staple. Chef Chris Kronner recently took over kitchen duties and has been garnering high praise from diners and critics alike—especially for tantalizing signature starters like marrow bones with herb salad and savory bread pudding. Main courses run the surf-to-turf gamut from sand dabs in brown butter to a rib steak for two with salt-roast russet potatoes. Even if you’re a dedicated chocoholic like myself, you’d be wise to pass and sample some of the other, more inventive desserts, such as Meyer lemon pot de crème with