Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [103]
561 Valencia St. (btw. 16th and 17th sts.). 415/487-1600. www.bartartine.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $14–$38. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Wed and Sun 6–10pm; Thurs–Sat 6–11pm; Sat–Sun 11am–2:30pm. Parking lot at 18th and Valencia sts., $8. Bus: 26 or 33. Streetcar: J.
Beretta ★★ ITALIAN Beretta is one of those restaurants that opened to so much buzz, it would be hard not to be let down. And yet, I wasn’t. Its casual vibe and well-thought-out small bites have kept the place packed since its debut in early 2008. Pizzas are one-of-a-kind and what the place is known for: Choose one with baccala, potato, panna, onions, and capers, or the broccolini, pancetta, tomato, and mozzarella combo. If you’re heading here after work for happy hour, nosh on antipasti plates like roasted beets with ricotta salata, meatballs in spicy tomato sauce, or eggplant caponatina with burrata. Need a heartier meal? Try one of the risotto dishes, like asparagus and robiola (Italian soft-ripened cheese) or saffron with osso buco, or a daily main course special like the herb-crusted halibut with fennel and olives. Don’t feel guilty sampling an array of the unique cocktails, either: Beretta has numerous mixology titles—it would be a shame to let the drinks go untasted. An added bonus: If you forget to make a reservation in advance—and on most nights, this place is hopping—you can call 45 minutes prior to your arrival and have your name added to the list.
1199 Valencia St. (at 23rd St.). 415/695-1199. www.berettasf.com. Reservations recommended. Pizzas $11–$15; main courses $12–$18. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 5:30pm–1am; Sat–Sun noon–1am. Parking garage at 21st St. (btw. Mission and Valencia sts.). Bus: 26 or 33. BART: 24th St. station.
Delfina ★★ ITALIAN Unpretentious warehouse-chic atmosphere, reasonable prices, and chef/co-owner Craig Stoll’s superb seasonal Italian cuisine have made this family-owned restaurant one of the city’s most cherished. Stoll, who was one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs in 2001 and a 2005 James Beard Award nominee, changes the menu daily, while his wife, Annie, works the front of the house (when she’s not being a mom). Standards include Niman Ranch flatiron steak with french fries, and roasted chicken with Yukon Gold mashed potatoes and royal trumpet mushrooms. The winter menu might include slow-roasted pork shoulder or gnocchi with squash and chestnuts, while spring indulgences can include sand dabs with frisée, fingerling potatoes, and lemon-caper butter or lamb with polenta and sweet peas. Trust me—order the buttermilk panna cotta (custard) if it’s available. A plus: A few tables and counter seating are reserved for walk-in diners. Delfina also has a heated and covered patio that’s used mid-March through November—and don’t miss Pizzeria Delfina next door ( 415/437-6800; www.pizzeriadelfina.com), where you can enjoy the same high-quality ingredients in a more casual, less expensive setting. Note: A second pizzeria is at 2406 California St. (at Fillmore St.; 415/440-1189) in Pacific Heights.
3621 18th St. (btw. Dolores and Guerrero sts.). 415/552-4055. www.delfinasf.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $18–$26. MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5:30–10pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–11pm; Sun 5–10pm. Parking lot at 18th and Valencia sts., $8. Bus: 26 or 33. Streetcar: J.
Flour + Water ★★ ITALIAN As the name indicates, flour and water are the two main ingredients here. Don’t let that fool you into thinking this is glorified prison food. The folks here are perfectionists—from carefully sourced ingredients and slavish preparations, to textures and flavors that are cultivated, coddled, and tinkered with until they meet exacting standards. Pastas are house-made daily, so is salumi—they butcher whole animals