Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [104]
2401 Harrison St. (at 20th St.). 415/826-7000. www.flourandwater.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $13–$24. AE, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5:30–11pm; Fri–Sat 5:30pm–midnight. Bus: 14, 14L, 27, or 12.
Foreign Cinema ★★ MEDITERRANEAN This place is so chic and well hidden that it eludes me every time I drive past it on Mission Street. (Hint: Look for the valet stand.) The “cinema” here is a bit of a gimmick: It’s an outdoor dining area (partially covered and heated, but still chilly) where mostly foreign films are projected onto the side of an adjoining building, with tableside minispeakers for audio. What’s definitely not a gimmick, however, is the superb Mediterranean-inspired menu created by husband-and-wife team John Clark and Gayle Pirie. Snackers like me find solace at the oyster bar with a half-dozen locally harvested Miyagi oysters and a devilishly good brandade (fish purée) gratin. Heartier eaters can opt for grilled halibut with chanterelles and roasted figs in a fig vinaigrette, fried Madras curry–spiced chicken with gypsy peppers, or grilled natural rib-eye with Tuscan-style beans and rosemary-fried peppercorn sauce—all made from seasonal, sustainably farmed, organic ingredients when possible. Truth be told, even if the food weren’t so good, I’d still come here—it’s just that cool. If you have to wait for your table, consider stepping into their adjoining bar, Laszlo.
2534 Mission St. (btw. 21st and 22nd sts.). 415/648-7600. www.foreigncinema.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $18–$26. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 6–10pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–11pm; Sun 5:30–10pm; brunch Sat 11am–3pm, Sun 11am–3:30pm. Valet parking $10. Bus: 14, 14L, or 49.
Pauline’s ★ PIZZA Housed in a cheery yellow double-decker building that stands out like a beacon in a somewhat seedy neighborhood, Pauline’s does only three things—pizzas, salads, and desserts—but it does them better than most restaurants in the city. Running the gauntlet of panhandlers for a slice of Louisiana andouille pizza topped with andouille sausage, bell peppers, and fontina cheese is completely worth it. Other gourmet toppings include house-made chicken sausage, French goat cheese, roasted eggplant, Danish fontina cheese, and tasso (spiced pork shoulder). The salads are equally amazing: certified organic, handpicked by California growers, and topped with fresh and dried herbs (including edible flowers) from Pauline’s own gardens in Berkeley. Don’t forget to leave room for the house-made ice cream and sorbets or chocolate mousse and butterscotch pudding. The wine list offers a smart selection of low-priced wines, where Star Canyon Vineyards, yet another of the owners’ pursuits, is showcased. Yes, prices are a bit steep (small pizzas start at $15), but what a paltry price to pay for perfection.
260 Valencia St. (btw. 14th St. and Duboce Ave.). 415/552-2050. www.paulinespizza.com. Reservations accepted for parties of 8 or more. Pizzas $12–$25. MC, V. Tues–Sat 5–10pm. Bus: 14, 26, or 49.
Spork ★ AMERICAN This former Kentucky Fried Chicken pays homage to its former tenant by taking the notion of fast food and turning it on its head, slow-food style. The inventive all-American menu relies on fresh, organic and locally produced ingredients whenever possible. Case in point: the signature Inside-Out Burger is a generous grass-fed beef patty topped with sharp Tillamook cheddar and caramelized