Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [106]
3108 16th St. (at Valencia St.). 415/252-7373. Reservations not accepted. Crepes $2–$12. MC, V. Mon and Fri 11am–11pm; Tues–Thurs 5–11pm; Sat–Sun 10am–11pm. Bus: 14, 22, 26, 33, 49, or 53. BART: 16th or Mission.
THE CASTRO & NOE VALLEY
For a map of restaurants in this section, see the “Mission District & Castro Area Restaurants” map.
Expensive
Frances ★★★ CALIFORNIAN/MEDITERRANEAN The much-accoladed Melissa Perello, who earned a Michelin star while helming Fifth Floor, has ventured out on her own with Frances. It’s a cozy little spot tucked into the residential side of the Castro that merges a fine-dining sensibility with neighborhood casualness. The menu—inspired by what’s available at local farmers’ markets—is limited, and that’s a good thing. Start with regular small-plate favorites, all priced at $6.50, including bacon beignets with crème fraîche and chives or the panisse frites (creamy-on-the-inside, crunchy-on-the-outside chickpea fritters with a “light and tart” Meyer lemon aioli), and then move on to perfectly seared scallops, a rich duck breast, or a vegetarian house-made pasta. Sides of seasonal vegetables are a la carte. Sommelier Paul Einbund has crafted a smart list of California and European wines, and desserts are a necessary end, especially those featuring locally produced Humphry Slocombe ice creams.
3870 17th St. (at Pond St. btw. Noe and Sanchez sts.). 415/621-3870. www.frances-sf.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$25. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Thurs and Sun 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–10:30pm. Closed Mon. Subway: F to 17th and Castro; K, L, or M to Castro.
TOP CHEF’S YIGIT PURA PICKS YOUR NEXT dessert
The winner of Top Chef Just Desserts Season 1, Yigit Pura (pronounced “Yeet”) started cooking in his hometown of Ankara, Turkey, worked with Daniel Boulud in New York and Las Vegas, and now lives here in San Francisco, where he works as Executive Pastry Chef for Taste Catering (www.tastecatering.com). We posed a question slightly less taxing than a Quickfire Challenge: “Which local bakeries and desserts excite you?”
Acme Bread: Their breads are by far some of the best I’ve had in the United States, especially their rustic country loaves—great crunchy crust with the perfect tender chewy texture inside!
Bi-Rite Creamery: The Lavender Honey Ice Cream here is so satisfying. It’s creamy, without having too much of an egg flavor, and instead, the bright flavors of the European honey shine in a very masculine manner. I love it with their berry compote and gingersnap croutons.
Boulette’s Larder: I love everything in this space. It is all made with such precision and love. I especially love their fresh house-made English muffins, which they have on Saturdays at 10am. If you get up early enough to go to the Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market, treat yourself to one.
Kika’s Treats (various retailers; http://kikastreats.com): Kika (Cristina Besher) is only sweeter than her desserts. She makes wholesale baked goods here in SF, and you can find her products in most retail stores. I am addicted to her caramelized graham crackers enrobed in milk chocolate. I’m certain she puts sea salt in the base, which makes it so addictive!
Tartine Bakery: Every once in a blue moon they will make “Bostoc,” which in essence is a slice of thick brioche soaked in light orange flower syrup, baked with almond cream and sliced almonds. Tartine takes this and adds kumquat jam, and they bake it super dark. It’s heaven. Sweet, bitter, chewy goodness!
—Yigit Pura
Incanto ★★★ ITALIAN The most difficult part of eating at this rustic Italian outpost in Noe Valley is simply deciding what to choose off of chef Chris Cosentino’s wildly inventive menu: He highlights seasonal produce, handmade pastas, and a whole lot of meat. (Cosentino also operates Boccalone, a local salumeria in the Ferry Building. Log onto www.boccalone.com.) Appetizers can be classic and simple,