• Choose a category
• All
• Classic-Fiction

By Root 827 0

like cannellini bean spread with toast or a salad of marinated sardines with grapefruit and greens, or something truly new to most palates like calf brains or beef bone marrow. Cosentino is a champion of whole-animal cooking, and a recent remodel has also designed the restaurant for more head-to-tail and shared meal options. In addition to Whole Pig Dining and Leg of Beast Dining, there’s also Ham in Hay—a whole ham, roasted in a crust of salt and fresh alfalfa hay, designed to be shared among 8 to 10 people. If you’re more of a “safe” eater, try a little gem salad with Point Reyes blue cheese, or a simple pasta with pork ragout; the more adventurous can dive into sweetbreads, beef tendons, and pig trotters. Desserts are a big draw, with a perfect, slightly savory panna cotta topped with seasonal fruit, warm chocolate cake, or the daily sorbet. If you don’t want a full meal, sit at the wine bar near the entrance and watch the chefs work in the open kitchen while you enjoy a wine flight creatively assembled by wine director Edward Ruiz.

1550 Church St. (at Duncan St. btw. 27th and 28th sts.). 415/641-4500. www.incanto.biz. Reservations recommended. Main courses $18–$25. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Wed–Sat 5:30–10pm; Sun–Mon 5:30–9:30pm. Closed Tues. Subway: J to 24th St.

Moderate

L’Ardoise ★★ FRENCH This charming little Duboce Triangle neighborhood restaurant’s name (ardoise means “chalk” in French ) is a reference to the daily menus displayed on chalkboards outside Parisian bistros—and chef and owner Thierry Clement certainly knows his way around classic French bistro fare. You’ll find standard appetizers like escargot, butter lettuce with delicate and sweet anchovies, and charcuterie platters. Main courses include steak frites, a rich duck leg confit, and creamy mushroom risotto. Specials change daily dependent upon what’s locally available (and the chef’s whim) and have included veal with sweetbreads (a personal favorite), roasted salmon, and other seafood. The selective wine list is outstanding, highlighting the best affordable French (white Bordeaux and offbeat Languedoc), Californian (smart pinot noirs and not-too-buttery chardonnays), and sparkling wines from around the globe. To really feel French for an evening, sit at the zinc bar. Desserts are merely passable.

151 Noe St. (at Henry St.). 415/437-2600. www.lardoisesf.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $14–$20. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5:30–10:00pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–11pm. Subway: F to Noe/Market; N to Duboce Park.

Starbelly ★★ CALIFORNIAN A huge communal dining counter runs down the middle of this large, high-ceilinged cafe in the Castro, a brother to the Mission-based Beretta. Look for thin, crispy pizzas (pear, blue cheese, and arugula), savory sandwiches (especially the porchetta), and heartier entrees (lamb chops, grilled fish, handmade pasta, or a simple and juicy burger) for lunch and dinner throughout the week. The weekend brunches really shine, particularly if you can score a table in the outdoor patio. Opt for traditional fare such as thick bacon, eggs, pillowy sourdough pancakes, or granola with yogurt and fruit, or go a little further out with the pulled chicken sandwich with jalapeño slaw or the squash-and-sage pizza. Wash it all down with a recommended microbrewed beer or a calimocho—a mix of Italian cola and red wine. Share any of a rotating selection of Dynamo donuts (candied orange blossom, chocolate star anise, banana de leche—yum!) for a sweet ending. Tip: You can call in 45 minutes before your estimated arrival time to get your name on the wait list.

3583 16th St. (at Noe and Market sts.). 415/437-2600. www.starbellysfcom. Reservations recommended. Main courses $11–$22. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–11pm; Fri 11:30am–midnight; Sat 10:30am–midnight; Sun 10:30am–11pm; brunch Sat–Sun 10:30am–3pm. Subway: F to Noe/Market; K, L, M to Castro Station.

The calimocho at Starbelly combines red wine and cola.

2223 Restaurant & Bar ★ CALIFORNIAN Surrounded by hardwood floors, candles, streamlined modern light fixtures, and loud music,